Things to do
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Centro Cívico
Grey stone and timber buildings in the local alpine style frame a square above the lake, designed by Ernesto de Estrada in the 1940s and now holding the town hall, the museum and the tourist office. Saint Bernards pose for photographs beside the statue of Roca. Most of the chocolate shops lie a block away on Mitre.
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Cerro Campanario
A chairlift climbs a low hill on the Circuito Chico to a terrace and cafe with a view over the peninsulas, islands and lakes below. The ride takes seven minutes and walking up takes closer to forty. Queues build through the middle of the day, so early or late gives the better light.
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Cerro Catedral
Rock spires that give the mountain its name stand above the main ski area of Argentina, a short drive south of town. Lifts run in winter for skiing and in summer for walkers heading to the Refugio Frey, a stone hut in a cirque beside its own lake. Weather turns quickly on the ridge, and the traverse suits experienced walkers only.
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Circuito Chico
A loop of some sixty kilometres west of town takes in the Llao Llao peninsula, the chapel of San Eduardo, Lago Moreno and a run of viewpoints over Nahuel Huapi. Cars, bicycles and a local bus all cover it, and the bicycle version suits a half day with stops. Traffic is heavy in January and the narrow sections have no shoulder.
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Lake
Nahuel Huapi Lake
Improbably blue glacial water fills a lake of long arms and forested islands, stretching west towards the Chilean border. Catamarans cross to Isla Victoria and to the myrtle forest of the Bosque de Arrayanes, and kayaks launch from the beaches near town. Wind gets up on most afternoons, which closes the small craft rentals early.
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Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argentina's oldest national park protects lakes, lenga forest and the Andean crest from Bariloche north to the Siete Lagos road. Refugios linked by marked paths make multi-day traverses possible without carrying a tent. Registration at the park office is required for the longer routes and takes a few minutes.