Things to do
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Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary
Set in the Maya Mountains behind the coast, this forest reserve was declared for the protection of jaguars and holds a dense population of them, though sightings are rare. Trails lead to waterfalls and swimming holes, and the Victoria Peak route takes several days with a guide. Tapir, ocelot and hundreds of bird species share the basin.
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Laughing Bird Caye
A thin sliver of sand and palms in a World Heritage marine park, this caye sits on a faro, a rare shelf reef formation that rings it with coral. Day boats from Placencia stop for snorkelling and a grilled lunch, and camping is no longer allowed. Hurricanes have stripped the island before, and replanting continues.
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Monkey River
A boat runs south along the coast and turns inland into a mangrove river where howler monkeys roar from the canopy and crocodiles rest on the banks. The trip pairs a river cruise with a forest walk and a stop in the small Creole village at the mouth. Mornings are best for wildlife.
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Placencia Peninsula
Sand, sea grape and lagoon fill the strip between the Caribbean and the mainland, with resorts spread along the north, the village at the tip and the Garifuna settlement of Seine Bight between them. Swimming is shallow and calm, and boats leave the harbour for the cayes. A single road carries all traffic to and from the highway.
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Silk Cayes
Three palm topped islets inside the Gladden Spit and Silk Cayes Marine Reserve sit on the edge of the reef drop off, ringed by coral heads and often by nurse sharks waiting on fishermen. Snorkel trips make a full day from Placencia, with lunch grilled on the sand. Shade is thin, and the crossing turns choppy in wind.