Things to do
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Alto de la Cruz
A stepped path of some 250 risers climbs from the top of the Calle Real to a cross on the ridge above the village, taking around twenty minutes at a slow pace. The view takes in the Cocora valley and the Andean ridges behind it. Cloud closes in by late morning on many days. The steps are slick after rain and there is no handrail.
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Cocora Valley
Wax palms, the tallest palms in the world and Colombia's national tree, stand in scattered ranks across pasture at the head of this valley, some reaching sixty metres. A loop of about five hours climbs through cloud forest and a hummingbird reserve before returning under the palms. Jeeps from the main square run the road in and out. Mud is constant, so boots beat trainers.
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Filandia
A quieter coffee town half an hour north carries the same colours on its houses with fewer jeeps in its square, and a lattice tower on the edge of it gives a long view across the Quindio hills. Basket weavers still work here in cane. Buses run from Salento through the day, and the last one back leaves earlier than visitors expect.
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Los Nevados National Park
Paramo, glaciers and three volcanic peaks make up the high park east of the coffee towns, reached from Salento by a long day through Cocora or from Manizales on the northern side. Entry is regulated and sections close when Nevado del Ruiz becomes active. Altitude above 4,000 metres is the limiting factor, and time in the coffee towns first helps. Most routes require a licensed guide, arranged in Manizales or the coffee towns beforehand.
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Salento Main Square
Balconies in strong colours face the plaza, and the Calle Real climbs from one corner towards the cross on the ridge. Jeeps park at the centre waiting for Cocora passengers, and stalls sell trout, patacon and coffee grown within sight. Crowds arrive from Armenia and Pereira at weekends, while weekday mornings stay calm enough to hear birds over the square.