Things to do
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Manuel Antonio National Park
Costa Rica's smallest national park packs rainforest, mangrove and four beaches into a headland where squirrel monkeys, sloths and capuchins live close to the trails. Entry is capped and tickets sell out online days ahead in dry season. Gates open early and shut by mid afternoon, and the park closes one day a week, which catches out late planners.
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Marina Pez Vela
Sportfishing boats, charter offices and a row of waterfront restaurants line a modern marina at the edge of town, built in 2012 on the old banana port. Evening is when it works best, with boats returning and tables filling along the quay. Catch and release billfish trips leave before dawn and are arranged through the dock offices.
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Nauyaca Waterfalls
Two tiers of falls on the Barú river drop into a wide swimming pool in forest above Dominical, an hour south of Quepos. Access crosses private land on foot, on horseback or by truck, and is arranged in advance. Starts are early to beat the heat on the track, and the lower pool is deep enough to swim across.
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Playa Espadilla
Outside the park boundary, a long open beach runs north from the entrance road, backed by vendors, surf schools and soda stands. Rip currents are genuine here and lifeguard cover is limited, so conditions deserve a check before entering. Sunset draws a crowd, and the sand stays warm long after the park has closed.
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Playa Manuel Antonio
Inside the park gates, a curved white sand bay sits in calm water sheltered by a rocky tombolo, which makes for the safest swimming on this stretch of coast. Capuchins raid unattended bags, and rangers ask that food stays sealed. Shade thins by late morning, once the crowd off the first buses has settled in.