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Ethiopia

Things to do in Lalibela

Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Lalibela

High in the Lasta mountains of northern Ethiopia, a small town of stone and thatch is built around eleven churches cut down into the living rock in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Orthodox pilgrims arrive through the year. Flights from Addis Ababa run daily and the airstrip lies half an hour below town. Christmas in early January draws tens of thousands of pilgrims and beds vanish. Mornings bring services, and the thin air slows the walk between the church groups.

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Things to do

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  1. Asheton Maryam Monastery

    Monastery · 4 hr

    A climb of several hours, or a mule ride for most of the way, reaches a church cut into a cliff face high above the town, with a broad view over the Lasta ranges. The building is modest and the walk is the point. Altitude and loose ground make this harder than it looks on a map.

  2. Church of Saint George

    Church · 1 hr

    Carved as a Greek cross sunk in a pit, Bet Giyorgis is the image most associated with Lalibela and stands apart from the two main groups. A sloping trench leads down to the door. Early morning brings white robed worshippers and softer light, and the upper rim gives the view of the roof crosses.

  3. Lalibela Saturday Market

    Market · 1 hr

    Farmers walk in from the hills with donkeys, grain, salt bars and chillies to trade on an open slope below the town. The gathering is social as much as commercial and thins out by early afternoon. Saturday is the day, and the ground is dusty enough that a hat earns its place.

  4. Rock-Hewn Churches

    Church · 5 hr

    Quarried down into red volcanic tuff and linked by trenches and tunnels, these churches form two clusters and remain in daily use by Orthodox priests. Crosses, drums and painted manuscripts are brought out on request. Shoes come off at each doorway, so simple sandals help. One ticket covers them all across several days.

  5. Yemrehanna Kristos

    Church · 4 hr

    Inside a cave on the slopes of Mount Abuna Yosef, a church of alternating wood and stone layers was built in the Aksumite manner, predating the rock churches in town. Bones of pilgrims lie stacked at the back. The drive takes about an hour each way on rough road, then a short uphill walk.

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Dispatches

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The Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia
Lalibela

The Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia

Eleven medieval churches were carved down into the volcanic rock of the Ethiopian highlands, a stone New Jerusalem still working after eight centuries of priests and pilgrims.

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