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Bayterek, a white lattice tower holding a golden sphere, rising beyond terraced gardens and flower beds on Astana's Left Bank, with three green glass towers, a grey egg-shaped dome and a tall green office tower behind, under an overcast sky
Bayterek and the towers of the Left Bank, Astana
Town brief · 51.1283°N 71.4306°E

Astana

Take the lift up Bayterek to see the whole new capital spread across the steppe below you, then spend your days on the ground among the buildings you picked out from the top.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Astana

How long
Two or three daystwo for the sights, a third at a slower pace
Getting around
Taxi or bus between the banksthe Left Bank sights are walkable in fair weather
When
Septemberabout 15 °C; minus 30 °C is common in midwinter
Language
Kazakh firstvisitor information comes in Kazakh, Russian and English
Money
The tenge, KZTmajor bank cards are widely accepted
Airport
Astana NQZabout 12 km south-east, 20 to 30 minutes by road
How long

How many days do you need in Astana?

Two or three days. Two cover Nurzhol Boulevard with Bayterek and Khan Shatyr, then Independence Square, taking in the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, the National Museum and the Hazrat Sultan Mosque. A third allows a slower pace, the Grand Mosque near the old Expo site, or a half day at the ALZHIR memorial outside the city.

Getting around

How do you get around Astana?

On foot within the Left Bank in fair weather, and by taxi or bus between sights further apart. More than 100 bus routes cover every district, including the airport and the railway stations. Official taxis are ordered at the airport's Taxi Point desk, and ride-hailing apps are in common use.

When

When is the best time to visit Astana?

September, when temperatures sit around 15 °C and the air is fresh. July is the warmest month, averaging about 21 °C, with peaks of up to 35 °C. Winter is severe: minus 30 to minus 35 °C is common from mid-December to early March, and the wind on the open steppe makes it feel colder.

Language

What language is spoken in Astana?

Kazakh is the main language of the city. Information for visitors is given in Kazakh, Russian and English.

Money

What currency is used in Astana?

The tenge, KZT. Major bank cards are accepted, and many cafes, shops and transport services take contactless payment, the city buses among them.

Airport

Which airport serves Astana?

Nursultan Nazarbayev International, NQZ, about 12 km south-east of the centre and 20 to 30 minutes by road. From Almaty the flight takes about two hours, and the overnight train about 12 to 13.5 hours.

Start on the Left Bank: walk Nurzhol Boulevard from the Ak Orda end to Khan Shatyr, and take the ticketed lift up Bayterek on the way. In the evening, cross to the Esil embankment by the Atyrau footbridge.

Then take a short taxi to Independence Square, where the National Museum, Hazrat Sultan Mosque and the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation stand close together. For the mosques, carry a scarf and cover your shoulders and knees. The National Museum closes on Mondays and the last Tuesday of the month, and ALZHIR on Mondays.

Sleep on the Left Bank near Bayterek, so the boulevard and Khan Shatyr are on foot. The right bank holds the older centre, but from there every Left Bank sight means a ride across the river.

From the airport, city buses 10 and 12 run to the centre and the railway stations, and a light rail line links the airport with Nurly Zhol station. On the buses, pay with a contactless bank card or a transport card. If you come by train from Almaty, tickets go on sale weeks ahead on the national railway's ticket site.

The Left Bank looks compact on the map, but the walks between sights are long and exposed, and the steppe wind makes cold feel much colder. In winter, take taxis between sights, use Khan Shatyr as your warm stop, and bring a hat and gloves. The city was called Nur-Sultan from 2019 to 2022, and some older maps and timetables still use that name.

Things to do

11
  1. Hazrat Sultan Mosque

    Hazrat Sultan Mosque

    Landmark · 30 min

    White marble and Kazakh ornament cover this mosque beside Independence Square, almost directly across from the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation and a short walk from the National Museum. It holds five thousand at prayer and up to ten thousand on holidays. Entry is free, non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside the five daily prayers, robes and headscarves are lent at the entrance, and shoes come off before the carpet.

  2. Khan Shatyr

    Khan Shatyr

    Shopping Centre · 1.5 hr

    A transparent tent designed by Norman Foster stands at the far end of Nurzhol Boulevard from Ak Orda and is heated through the winter. Under it are shops, a park, a monorail looping the upper level and a warm indoor beach. It opens daily from ten in the morning to ten at night, and until eleven on Fridays and Saturdays.

  3. Nur-Astana Mosque

    Nur-Astana Mosque

    Landmark

    Since 2021 this mosque has officially carried the name of the philosopher Abu Nasr al-Farabi, though many maps and English listings still call it Nur-Astana. It has white walls under a golden dome and four minarets of 63 metres, on Kabanbay Batyr Avenue on the Left Bank. Entry is free outside prayer times, and shoes come off at the door.

  4. ALZHIR Museum-Memorial Complex

    Museum

    In the village of Akmol, about forty kilometres from Astana, a museum and memorial stand on the grounds of a Soviet camp for women prisoners. It is a memorial to the women and children repressed under Stalin who were held there. Reaching it takes a dedicated transfer of under an hour each way, so the visit fills half a day, and the complex is closed on Mondays.

  5. Astana Grand Mosque

    Landmark · 30 min

    On Mangilik El Avenue near the old Expo site, this mosque is newer than Hazrat Sultan and separate from it. Entry is free, and a deck in one of its minarets is open to visitors for a fee. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside prayer times, when the building closes to sightseeing for the prayers themselves.

  6. Astana Opera

    Landmark

    Opera and ballet are staged in the Main Hall, which seats about 1,250, and chamber concerts in a second hall of 250 seats. Guided excursions of the theatre run daily except Monday, at eleven and at three, for groups of five or more; otherwise the interior is seen by booking a performance. The box office is open until seven in the evening on weekdays and until six at weekends.

  7. Atyrau Bridge

    Landmark

    Shaped like the skeleton of a fish, this footbridge over the Esil is known locally as the fish bridge. The embankment runs along the river on both sides of the bridge, with cafes, kiosks and catamaran and boat rides on the water, and in the evening residents come out to walk its paths.

  8. Bayterek

    Tower · 30 min

    On Nurzhol Boulevard, between Ak Orda and Khan Shatyr, white branching girders hold up a gold-mirrored sphere 22 metres across. Two lifts inside the shaft rise to an observation deck 97 metres above the ground, with the plan of the Left Bank laid out below. At the top a gilded print of Nursultan Nazarbayev's right hand draws a queue waiting to place a hand in it and make a wish.

  9. National Museum of Kazakhstan

    Museum · 2 hr

    Housed in blue glass and white marble on Independence Square, the national museum spreads its collection over eleven halls. The Gold Hall holds gold from the tombs of the ancient steppe nomads, and on a short visit the archaeology, gold and ethnography halls come first. It opens from ten to six, Tuesday to Sunday, and also closes on the last Tuesday of each month.

  10. Nurzhol Boulevard

    Landmark · 1.5 hr

    About two kilometres of pedestrian gardens run through the Left Bank, from the Ak Orda presidential palace at one end to Khan Shatyr at the other, with Bayterek between them. Ak Orda is seen only from the public areas, and the walk along the whole boulevard takes an hour or a little more with stops.

  11. Palace of Peace and Reconciliation

    Landmark · 1 hr

    Across Independence Square from Hazrat Sultan Mosque, a glass and steel pyramid by Norman Foster rises 62 metres. The glass at its apex is printed with doves in flight, and the interior is seen on a guided tour. Tours run every day of the week, in Kazakh, Russian and English.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap
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Sources 5

The official pages this guide was checked against.

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