Things to do
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Lake
Lake Rotorua
Filling the floor of a caldera formed by a vast eruption, the lake carries Mokoia Island at its centre, a place of consequence in Te Arawa history. Floatplanes, kayaks and lake cruises leave from the city end, and a flat path follows the shore past the government gardens. Steam rises off the water at Sulphur Bay on cold mornings, where black billed gulls nest.
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Polynesian Spa
Mineral water from two springs feeds a terrace of hot pools on the shore of Lake Rotorua, one acidic and one alkaline, each held at a different temperature. Adults only pools look straight over the water and are quietest early or late. Bathing suits are required, towels are hired on site, and the sulphur smell stays in hair until it is washed.
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Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest
Californian redwoods planted early last century now stand over a network of walking and mountain bike trails just outside town. A suspended treewalk runs between the trunks and opens after dark under lanterns. Trails are graded and free to walk; the bike park is busy at weekends and bikes can be hired at the entrance.
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Te Puia
Pohutu geyser erupts through the day at this geothermal valley on the edge of town, alongside mud pools, a kiwi house and the national carving and weaving schools. Guided tours link the thermal ground to the work of the students, and evening programmes add a hangi meal. Guides come from the local hapū, which is the point of coming here.
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Wai-O-Tapu
Collapsed craters, a lime green pool called the Devil's Bath and the wide orange rim of the Champagne Pool line a boardwalk circuit half an hour south of Rotorua. Lady Knox Geyser is set off with soap at a fixed morning hour, which concentrates arrivals; walking the loop in reverse afterwards avoids the crush.
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Whakarewarewa
A living village sits among steam vents and boiling pools, where residents still cook in the hot springs and bathe in the thermal water. Guided walks are led by villagers, and a cultural performance runs several times a day. Visits are ticketed and run about two hours; the cooking demonstration is the part worth waiting for.