Things to do
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Feskekôrka
Gothic gables and a steep pitched roof gave this 1874 fish market its nickname, the fish church. A long restoration closed it for several years before it returned as a hall of counters, a seafood bar and restaurants under the same timber vault. Lunch is the sensible time, since trading winds down well before dinner.
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Gothenburg Archipelago
Twenty or so islands lie off the city, and the southern group bans cars entirely, so bicycles, boats and handcarts do the moving. Styrsö, Brännö and Vrångö are reached by ferry from Saltholmen at the end of the tram line, with the trip counting as local transport. Smooth granite slabs serve as beaches, and the swimming season is short.
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Haga
Low wooden and brick houses line the cobbled lanes of the city's oldest surviving quarter, saved from demolition in the 1980s and given over to cafes, vintage shops and a weekend stroll. Haga is where the cinnamon bun grew to the size of a dinner plate. Afternoons are busy, and the street empties by evening when the restaurants take over.
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Liseberg
Wooden coasters, a hilltop garden and a fairground laid out on terraces make this the anchor of Gothenburg summers, drawing crowds from across the Nordic countries. Balder and Helix pull the longest queues, and ride passes are separate from gate entry. It closes for most of the autumn, then reopens in November for a Christmas market strung with lights.
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Slottsskogen
Oaks, ponds and open meadow fill a large park southwest of the centre, with a free animal enclosure holding Gotland ponies, elk and seals. Concerts and the Way Out West festival take over in August. Paths link it to the botanical garden across the road, and the observatory hill gives a view across the rooftops.
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Universeum
Seven floors of science museum climb from an indoor rainforest with free flying birds to shark tanks, a Baltic aquarium and exhibits on space and technology. Children set the pace here, and the building was designed by Gert Wingårdh. School holidays and rainy Saturdays fill it, so an early arrival helps. Two hours covers the main floors.