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Red-lantern teahouse terraces on a hillside in Jiufen, in late afternoon sun, with green mountains behind
Teahouse terraces in Jiufen · red lanterns in late sun
Town brief · 25.1094°N 121.8443°E

Jiufen

Do not plan Jiufen as a night out from Taipei: its red lanterns come on around sunset and go off about 21:00. Sleep on the hillside instead and you get the lanes at dusk with no bus to catch, then the quiet of the next morning before the day buses arrive.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Jiufen

How long
One or two nightsthe second for a day at Shifen or Yehliu
Getting around
On foot and by bustaxis stop at a car park, a walk from the lanes
When
A weekdayweekends crowd the lanes at sunset
Language
Mandarin ChineseShuqi Road reads 豎崎路 on signs
Money
New Taiwan dollaran EasyCard covers the buses
Airports
Taoyuan TPETaipei Songshan TSA is the other
How long

How many days do you need in Jiufen?

One night covers the lanes and the Gold Museum in Jinguashi. A second night gives a full day for Shifen on the Pingxi Line or Yehliu Geopark on the north coast, with no return to Taipei in between.

Getting around

How do you get from Taipei to Jiufen by bus?

Two buses run direct. The Taiwan Tourist Shuttle 965 starts at MRT Fuzhong Station in Banqiao. Keelung Bus 1062 starts at MRT Zhongxiao Fuxing Station and goes via Ruifang, taking 1 to 1.5 hours depending on traffic.

When

What is the best time to visit Jiufen?

Monday suits a visit: the lanes stay open, and it is quieter than the weekend. Rain falls in every month at nearby Keelung, from about 64 mm in January to about 200 mm in September, so an umbrella belongs in the bag in any season.

Language

Do you need to speak Chinese to visit Jiufen?

Mandarin is the everyday language of the town. The 965's route name is 九份金瓜石線, the Jiufen to Jinguashi line, so the characters 九份 and 金瓜石 help match the right bus and stop.

Money

Do Jiufen buses take cash?

Yes, but no change is given, so a cash fare needs the exact amount. The Tourist Shuttle 965 also takes iPass.

Airports

How do you get from Taoyuan Airport to Jiufen?

The Airport MRT reaches Taipei Main Station in 35 to 50 minutes. Trains from there to Ruifang take 30 minutes on an express and 50 on a local, and a bus or taxi covers the last 10 to 15 minutes up the hill.

Most of the shops and eateries line Jishan Street, the Old Street, a narrow lane along the hillside; Shuqi Road crosses it as a steep stair with fewer shops. Taro and sweet potato balls in syrup, hot or on ice, are the snack the town is known for. Many small shops open only around ten in the morning, so breakfast before then is thin.

A-Mei Teahouse on Shuqi Road is the lantern-hung building in most photographs of Jiufen. A table there means a wait at weekends and in the evening.

Bus 965 stops at Jiufen Police Station and Jiufen Old Street and runs until 21:00; bus 788, down to Ruifang, runs about an hour later. The evening buses back to Taipei can have long queues, so do not leave it to the last one.

Inns along the lanes are reached on foot up stone steps, so leave heavy bags at your hotel in Taipei. If you arrive before your room is ready, ask the inn to hold your luggage. The best-rated rooms book out, so reserve well ahead or you end up sleeping down in Ruifang.

Rain is common, and fog often covers the town. Wind and rain are strongest higher up the hill.

The buses through Jiufen, the 1062 from Taipei among them, carry on to the Gold Museum in Jinguashi, while the Golden Waterfall and the Yinyang Sea viewpoint on the highway below are easiest by car. Shifen and Houtong are on the railway from Ruifang. Yehliu has no train, and the bus with a change takes well over an hour each way.

Things to do

12
  1. Jiufen Old Street

    Jiufen Old Street

    Old Town · 3 hr

    Narrow stepped lanes thread the hillside where gold miners once lived, now lined with teahouses and stalls selling braised pork and peanut ice rolls. Views run down over the sea from the balconies above Shuqi Road. The lanes are shoulder to shoulder in the middle of the day, so avoid midday. Most shops close around 18:00.

  2. Shifen Waterfall

    Shifen Waterfall

    Waterfall · 1.5 hr

    Water spills in a broad curtain into a green plunge pool on the Keelung River, reached by a paved walk and suspension bridges from Shifen station. Viewing platforms sit above and below the drop. Entry is free and coach groups arrive after eleven, while heavy rain turns the fall brown and leaves the walkways slick.

  3. Gold Museum

    Museum · 2.5 hr

    The Gold Museum sits in Jinguashi, 2.5 km from Jiufen, with a mine heritage park around it. It closes at 17:00 on weekdays and an hour later at weekends and on national holidays. It shuts on the first Monday of each month, at Chinese New Year and on declared natural disaster days.

  4. Golden Waterfall

    Waterfall · 30 min

    The Golden Waterfall runs down the hillside beside Provincial Highway 102 near Jinguashi, a five-minute walk from a roadside pull-in. A car or a tour bus reaches it easily, but public transport is awkward. The light on the falls is strongest from three to five in the afternoon.

  5. Houtong Cat Village

    Village · 1.5 hr

    Houtong is a former mining village in the Ruifang valley, with walkways up the hillside and cat-themed cafes. From Jiufen, take a bus down to Ruifang Station and then a local train of six minutes. Many of the shops and themed cafes have closed, so plan it as a short stop on the way to Shifen.

  6. Mount Jilong

    Viewpoint · 2 hr

    Mount Jilong is the peak directly above Jiufen, with views over the sea and the mountains around the town. The trail starts across the road from the Geding bus stop on Provincial Highway 2, a short uphill walk from Jiufen Old Street, and climbs stone steps all the way. There is no shade and the summit is fully exposed, so carry water and sun protection; the round trip takes 1 to 2 hours.

  7. Shengping Theater

    Landmark · 30 min

    A restored cinema of 1934 stands where Shuqi Road meets Qingbian Road, beside A-Mei Teahouse. Inside are the old seats, the projection equipment and vintage film posters, and entry is free. It opens daily except the first Monday of each month, election days and Chinese New Year, until 17:00 on weekdays and an hour later at weekends.

  8. Shifen Old Street

    Landmark · 1.5 hr

    Shops here sit either side of a live railway track, and the Pingxi line trains pass close enough that stallholders clear the rails by hand before each one. Painted sky lanterns are released from the street over the countryside. Trains from Ruifang run about hourly and take 15 to 20 minutes.

  9. Shuqi Road

    Landmark · 30 min

    A stone stairway of more than 350 steps, about 200 metres long, climbs through the middle of Jiufen from Jishan Street up to Qingbian Road. Teahouses with sea views line it, A-Mei Teahouse among them, hung with red lanterns. The steps are steep and turn slippery in rain, so wear shoes with grip.

  10. Teapot Mountain

    Viewpoint · 3 hr

    Teapot Mountain is a hilltop above Jinguashi with a view down over the coast and the town. The trail starts at the Quanji Temple car park and is nearly an hour of stairs, with a precarious final stretch at the top. Save it for a dry day: the steps and the summit turn slippery in rain, and the heat builds fast once the sun is up.

  11. Yehliu Geopark

    Park · 2 hr

    Sandstone on this cape has weathered into mushroom rocks, honeycomb hollows and the slender Queen's Head, whose neck thins a little further every year and is fenced off from touch. A boardwalk loop takes under an hour. Sea spray and full sun make midday hard going, and the cape closes in typhoon weather.

  12. Yinyang Sea

    Viewpoint · 30 min

    The Yinyang Sea is a bay seen from a roadside viewpoint on Provincial Highway 102, between Jiufen and Jinguashi. There is no walk to make: the view is from the road. Late afternoon gives the water its best colour, and the Shuinandong ruins nearby are lit at night.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap
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