Ceannabeinne Beach

What makes it special

Look at the rocks first. The cliffs either side of the sand are ancient gneiss, banded orange and black where the rock was squeezed and folded billions of years ago, and in some light they look pink.

Behind the beach a grassy slope climbs to Beinn Ceannabeinne, a 383 metre hill whose name means end of the mountains and which the beach shares. Offshore lies Eilean Hoan, once farmed and now a nature reserve.

The township of Ceannabeinne was home to about 50 people until a landlord's eviction notice gave them 48 hours to leave. A few low stone walls now mark the houses and gardens, and the old school house is the one building still standing.

Visiting

Parking in the small car park off the A838 puts the whole cove below you, so look from the bank before you take the steps down. The beach slopes gently to the water, with the rock cliffs at either end. If you swim, go on a calm morning, before the wind picks up.

For the township, go through the gate where the waymarked trail starts. Signboards take you round the ruins in order and bring you out at the shore, so you need no guide. Go out onto the headland for the best view back over the walls.

Dogs are allowed on the beach, but sheep graze the trail, so keep yours on a lead there. Watch for seabirds and wildflowers on the way round in spring and summer.

Tips

In a campervan or other large vehicle, park carefully so that other traffic can still pass on the A838. The nearest toilets, café and other amenities are in Durness, since the beach and the trail have none. Pack layers and waterproofs, even for a short stop.