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Ninety seconds on Brasília Palace Hotel
Worth a night if you want to sleep inside the modernist hotel Oscar Niemeyer designed beside the Alvorada Palace, on the shore of Lake Paranoá. Athos Bulcão's blue and white tiles still cover one outside wall.
Athos Bulcão made two works for this hotel: the tile panel on one outside wall, and a fresco in the event hall that carries his name. Both are counted among the icons of Brasília. The fresco is one of the few he ever painted.
Oscar Niemeyer designed the building, which opened alongside the Alvorada Palace. A fire in 1978 put it out of use for years, and the tile panel and fresco were restored for its reopening in the 2000s.
The rooms are plain and modern, with strong colour and little furniture. They run from 30 to 60 square metres, and each has a balcony and either a double bed or two singles. The building itself is the reason to stay: you sleep inside a symbol of the capital's modernist architecture.
After check-in, you can borrow one of the hotel bikes for two hours and ride on the lawn and in the streets around the hotel. The gym opens from 6am to 10pm, and there is a sauna.
Dinner is at the Oscar Restaurant, an Italian-inspired dining room in a wide garden with the lake shore in view. A pianist plays late in the week, so book a table on one of those nights.
The reception desk is staffed around the clock and handles room service, so a late arrival is no problem.
Walk the garden side before you go up to your room. The tile panel stands between the lawn and the event hall, and its colours show best from the grass.
The fresco is inside the Athos Bulcão event hall, which also hosts functions. Check at reception that no event is on before you look in.
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