Ninety seconds on Prague Castle
Go for the cathedral, not only the skyline view: inside St Vitus, an Art Nouveau window by Alfons Mucha sits among the Gothic stone, and the same ticket opens a vaulted royal hall and Golden Lane.
St Vitus Cathedral fills the middle of the complex. It was finished only in 1929, which is why medieval stone and modern glass share one Gothic nave.
The Mucha window is on the north side of the nave, where the windows get no direct sun. The south windows light up from late morning into the late afternoon.
Off the nave, the Chapel of St Wenceslaus holds the saint's relics under a ribbed vault by Peter Parler. The chapel is closed to visitors, so you see it from its doorways. A small door with seven locks in its corner leads to the Crown Chamber, where the Bohemian crown jewels are locked away.
In the Royal Palace, look up in Vladislav Hall: a single stone vault spans its full width.
Golden Lane is a row of tiny houses set into the fortification wall and painted in bright colours, with a round tower at its eastern end. Several of the houses hold an exhibition on daily life in the lane through the centuries, and Franz Kafka lived and worked at number 22.
From inside the walls, the free South Gardens give the widest view back over the red roofs of the city.
Expect a security check at the castle gates before you reach the courtyards. The main circuit ticket covers a first visit and stays valid for two days, with one entry to each building, so you can split the circuit.
Start at St Vitus Cathedral. Without a ticket you can stand in the entrance hall, but the nave is roped off.
From the cathedral, cross to the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, then walk on to St George's Basilica. Finish in Golden Lane, ending at its round tower.
On a Sunday, when the cathedral opens late, reverse the order: palace, basilica and Golden Lane first, cathedral last.
The castle information centres sell tickets on the day.
For the changing of the guard, be in the First Courtyard before noon. The full ceremony with fanfare and a flag exchange runs about 20 minutes, so stand inside the courtyard rather than at the fence. The sentries at the main gate also change on the hour.
Ride the tram up and walk down to the centre afterwards. On a Sunday morning, you can attend Mass in the cathedral at 10 am.
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