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Ninety seconds on Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
Berlin kept the broken tower of its old church as a ruin and built a new church of blue glass beside it. Stand between the two on the square, then step inside, where daylight turns the whole room deep blue.
Kept as a ruin, the broken tower of the old church stands as a reminder of the crimes of National Socialism.
Its memorial hall, closed for renovation as of October 2026, holds colourful mosaics and a Christ statue from the old church. The hall also holds an icon cross from Volgograd (formerly Stalingrad) and a cross of nails from Coventry.
Beside the tower, the octagonal church has walls of concrete honeycomb set with thousands of small windows. Their deep blue glass was designed by the French artist Gabriel Loire and made in his workshop in Chartres.
The glass sits in an outer and an inner wall, with a walkway between them. Over the altar is a figure of Christ by Hemmeter, about 15 feet tall, and the altar, font and pulpit were designed by the architect Egon Eiermann.
Start where the golden crack meets Budapester Straße and follow it across Breitscheidplatz and up the steps. It remembers the victims of the attack on the Christmas market here in December 2016, and their names are cast into the risers on both sides of it.
From the top of the steps, look closely at the fire-blackened brick of the old tower. Then go into the octagonal church, sit down, and look up at the blue walls and the figure of Christ.
On the way out, cross to the bell tower, which was built with the church and has the same blue glass walls.
The church runs 30-minute tours of the whole ensemble from Tuesday to Sunday, on a donation basis and with no booking. Most start at a quarter past the hour from late morning, with fewer on Tuesdays, and the church's tour page lists the times.
Some tours walk the passage between the two glass walls. A private group tour has to be booked ahead and is charged.
Sit for a while before you look for detail. The interior is dark when you come in from the street, and the colour in the glass comes up as your eyes adjust.
Close up, each square of glass turns out to be a small picture of its own, with green and gold worked in among the blue. Stand by the wall to see it before you leave.
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The official pages this guide was checked against.
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