St Nicholas Princely Church

What makes it special

The building you see is not the medieval one. In the late nineteenth century a French architect rebuilt Stephen the Great's fifteenth-century church, taller than the original and without its buttresses. Its Romanian name, Sfântul Nicolae Domnesc, means Princely St Nicholas.

Look closely at the outside walls. Between rows of exposed brick, niches hold 282 faces of saints and pre-Christian philosophers.

Inside, the walls carry French neoclassical painting from the turn of the twentieth century in place of the original Byzantine scheme. The tones are warm and the room is small, so you see the painting up close. Find St Nicholas climbing down a chimney into the house of three poor young women, carrying a purse of dowry money.

Visiting

Two parts make up the visit: the brick walls outside, then the painted interior. Walk round the church first and look up at the niches before you go in.

In the entrance to the pronaos, two votive paintings face each other: Stephen the Great and his family on the right, the Romanian royal family on the left. Then go straight on into the nave for the chimney scene.

The interior is small. A choir sings during the liturgy, so if a service is under way, keep quiet and stay near the door.

Tips

Search for the church by name in your map app. Casa Dosoftei stands nearby and fits the same stop, so see both before you walk on to the Trei Ierarhi Monastery.

Cover your shoulders and knees as you would in any Orthodox church, and ask before you take photos inside.