
Ninety seconds on Katholische Pfarrkirche Hallstatt
Ten minutes in the chapel, twenty in the church above it, and the steps between them are the visit. Both are quiet before the coaches arrive, and from November the charnel house opens only for a few hours in the middle of the day.
Graves take up the only flat ground on the terrace, and the wall at the edge of it looks straight down on the roofs and the water. The church behind them has two naves and stands on rock that falls away beneath it, which is why the plan feels improvised from the inside. The charnel house is the low chapel to one side, entered on its own ticket, and it is one room: skulls in ranks at eye height, long bones stacked below them, the painted ones at the front. Ten minutes is enough to see it and longer to read it. Mass is said here on weekday mornings, so the church is not always empty when visitors arrive.
Explore the rest of Hallstatt

The prehistoric cemetery in the valley above the village, where about fifteen hundred graves were excavated from 1846 and gave their name…

The mine above the village, entered by funicular and then a tunnel, with two long wooden slides between levels and a subterranean lake.…

Prince-archbishops ran this as an independent state until 1803, paying for it with the salt that gives the river and the town their name,…