Everyone books it as the Caribbean. It sits level with South Carolina, a thousand kilometres out in the open Atlantic.
Four days covers it and a week is comfortable. The island is about 34 kilometres end to end and nothing on it is more than an hour away
No. Visitors are not permitted to drive four wheeled vehicles, and the only exception is a two seat electric minicar, allowed since 2017. Otherwise it is bus, ferry, scooter or taxi
May to October for the water. The sea runs about 26 to 29C in late summer and drops to about 18 to 20 in winter, and hurricane season is June to November
English, and only English. A Portuguese speaking community has been part of the island since 1849
The Bermudian dollar, pegged one to one with the US dollar. American money is taken everywhere; Bermudian notes are little use off the island
L.F. Wade International BDA, the only airport, at the eastern end of the island about 25 minutes from Hamilton
Ninety seconds on the country
Bermuda is the top of a sunken volcano wearing about sixty metres of limestone, and the warm current is what lets a coral reef live at this latitude. The Gulf Stream is the reason it exists at 32 degrees north, and the reef is the reason the water is that colour and the sand carries pink.
It is also the oldest continuously inhabited English settlement in the New World. St George’s has been lived in since 1612, which makes it older than any surviving town in the United States or Canada, and it is a UNESCO site because nobody ever got round to modernising it.
Those two things sit about twenty miles apart. A beach island with a seventeenth century town at one end and a Royal Navy dockyard at the other is an unusual combination, and the whole of it fits inside an hour on a bus.
Plan around the transport rather than the map. No visitor may drive a car, so a day is built out of buses, ferries, a scooter or a taxi, and short distances take longer than they look. There is also no fresh water: every roof on the island is a catchment, which is why they are all white and all stepped.
Pick how you want to travel. The parishes, the things to do and the map all change with it.
The south shore carries the pink sand and the surf; the north shore and the sounds carry the flat water, and the two are ten minutes apart. Warwick has the most of it, then St. David’s, with eighteen places across nine parishes.
The south shore beaches are strung along one dune path rather than scattered, so a day there is a walk with swimming in it. The foreshore is public throughout the island, which is why no hotel owns a stretch of sand and the path never meets a gate.
Most of it sits at the two ends: the World Heritage town of St George’s in the east and the Royal Naval Dockyard in the west, with Hamilton’s museums and galleries between them. St George’s alone holds thirteen of the forty-one places, and Hamilton nine.
The forts are the through line. Bermuda was a fortress before it was a holiday, and the batteries are strung along the one channel through the reef that a ship could ever use. Almost none of them fired at anything.
The good ones are small. Spittal Pond at Flatts takes the migrating waterfowl, Paget Marsh holds stands of cedar and palmetto that were never cleared, and Cooper’s Island was closed to the public until the Americans left in 1995. Fourteen places across nine parishes, with Paget holding the most.
The headline species is the cahow, an endemic petrel eaten to apparent extinction by the 1620s and found again in 1951. Its island is shut to visitors, which is the entire point of it, and the reserve next door is the one to walk.
Nearly all of it is water or limestone. At Church Bay in Southampton the reef comes close enough inshore for a competent swimmer to reach it from the sand, and the flooded caves at Bailey’s Bay are the same rock from underneath. Four of the eleven places are at Bailey’s Bay alone.
The one land route is the Railway Trail, which runs about 33 kilometres along the bed of the line that carried the island from 1931 until it was sold to British Guiana in 1948. It is the only way to cross Bermuda away from the roads.
Bermuda has never had a resort strip and the planning rules have never allowed one, so the seven houses sit in seven different parishes. The Hamilton Princess has been taking guests since 1885.
The rest are small, old and mostly family run, several of them cottage colonies scattered through their own grounds. What that buys is a stretch of beach with nobody on it rather than a lobby with everybody in it.
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