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Ninety seconds on Lagoa da Conceição
The biggest lagoon on Florianópolis lies between hills and dunes. From the village on its shore, you can rent a board for the wind or take a boat across for lunch at Costa da Lagoa.
The water covers almost 20 square kilometres. Hills separate it from the ocean along its southeast shore, and a channel links it to Barra da Lagoa and the sea.
In the village stands the church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, completed in 1780.
Bobbin lace arrived with the Azorean settlers in the 18th century, and it is still made and sold here. About 50 lacemakers meet three times a week, and the Centro Cultural Bento Silvério in Lagoa has run weekly lace workshops.
Cross the Avenida das Rendeiras bridge and follow the avenue, and the dunes begin less than a kilometre on. They form a municipal natural park between the lagoon and Joaquina beach, and sandboarding was born on these slopes. Hang gliders and paragliders take off from the hills around the water.
Avenida das Rendeiras runs for about two kilometres along the lagoon, lined with bars and restaurants. Windsurf, kitesurf and stand-up paddle gear is rented along it. The Centrinho, the village centre, has the liveliest nightlife.
For lunch, take a boat to Costa da Lagoa. Boats leave from the lake terminal in the village and from Rio Vermelho, and you buy the ticket as you board: Pix, debit card or cash in the village, cash only at Rio Vermelho.
In summer the village boats leave about every 30 minutes from 8am to 6pm, and the Rio Vermelho boats every 15 minutes from 9am to 5pm. The crossing takes from a few minutes to about 40, depending on where you board.
At the Costa, a waterfall about five metres high falls into pools you can swim in. Lunch at one of the restaurants afterwards and order the freshest fish of the season.
To walk one way instead, start the trail at Canto dos Araçás, at the end of Avenida das Rendeiras, where a sign marks the start. Allow 2 to 3 hours, then take the boat back to rest and see the shore from the water.
For the Costa trail, wear comfortable trainers or boots and light clothes, and carry water, sunscreen, insect repellent and a hat. Pack swimwear for the waterfall, but stay off the rocks around it, which are dangerous to climb.
On the lagoon itself, do not underestimate the wind and the current. The depth changes from place to place, so choose a shallow stretch if you are swimming or paddling for the first time.
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