Église Saint-Pierre

What makes it special

The statue of Saint Michael is the reason to step inside. It stands in the Saint Michael chapel off the nave, the archangel slaying the dragon, and it is monumental: thin silver sheet laid over a wooden core.

Since 1886 this parish church has been the official place of devotion to Saint Michael on the rock. That is why pilgrims who come for the archangel pray here rather than in the abbey above.

The church itself is small, built in the 15th and 16th centuries and dedicated to Saint Peter. Its nave has only one side aisle, so the choir sits off-centre to the left, a lopsided plan you notice the moment you look down the church from the door.

Joan of Arc sits enthroned at the entrance. Further in are a headless medieval effigy, early baptismal fonts, a Virgin and Child and a run of stained glass windows.

Visiting

Walk in off the Grande Rue past the statue of Joan of Arc. Keep your voice low inside throughout, because this is a working church and a service may be under way.

Walk down the nave towards the off-centre choir, then turn into the side chapel for the silver Saint Michael. On the way back, stop at the baptismal fonts and the headless effigy, and give the stained glass a minute.

Leave by the main door and walk round to the small village cemetery right beside the church. It is as quiet as the nave, and an easy last stop before you carry on up the street to the abbey.

Tips

Plan around the 11:00 mass. Come early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the Grande Rue outside is quieter, or stop on your way back down from the abbey. If a service is under way when you arrive, stand quietly at the back or come back later rather than walking round the chapels.