
Ninety seconds on Vatican Museums
Book entry at 8am or after 5pm: between ten and three the one-way route to the Sistine Chapel is packed wall to wall.
Past security, an escalator lifts you onto a route that only runs forward, and the signs for the Sistine Chapel pull the whole flow straight along it. Step off early. The Pinacoteca, reached by walking out into the open as you come off the escalator, hangs Raphael's Transfiguration and Caravaggio's Deposition. Beyond the Pinecone Courtyard come the Pio Clementino's sculpture rooms, with the Laocoön and the Apollo Belvedere, then the Gallery of Maps, a 120-metre hall of painted Italy under a gilded ceiling, and the Raphael Rooms, where the School of Athens is. The chapel comes near the end. It is kept silent, phones are banned, and guards will stand over you while you delete a picture.
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