Essaouira Medina

What makes it special

Built on the principles of European military architecture in a North African setting, the walled town once called Mogador has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001. Its thick ramparts also shield the lanes from much of the wind coming off the sea.

The Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, fills the north-east corner of the medina. Its Jewish museum, Bayt Dakira, takes in the Simon Attias Synagogue and two floors of displays on the large Jewish community that once lived in the town.

The Skala de la Ville, also called the Sqala de la Kasbah, guards the north-west point and was built in the 1760s to defend the town. Back in the souks, workshops turn thuya wood, and Essaouira is the only place where it is worked this way.

Visiting

From Bab Marrakech, follow the main street into the souks, where workshops and stalls line both sides. Walk on to the Mellah in the north-east corner of the medina and stop at Bayt Dakira.

Follow the inside of the northern walls west to the Skala de la Ville at the north-west point, then walk south down the sea side of the town to the fishing port. Start early and the boats will still be landing the night's catch when you get there.

Leave by Bab Sbaa, the gate where the long beach walk south toward Diabat begins.

Guided or on your own

The two main streets make a guide optional. If you want one, ask your riad: official guides carry a badge and are booked through the riad. Unofficial guides may offer their services in the street, but the hassle stays spoken, never physical, so decline and carry on.

Tips

Haggle in the souks, where bargaining is normal and the first figure is an opening. After dark, stay in the centre of the medina, because any hassle at night shifts to the edges of town.

Alcohol shops close on Fridays, the day of prayers, so buy on Thursday and expect a queue.