Plage d'Essaouira

What makes it special

Running south from the old town toward the village of Diabat, the town beach is a long curve of sand facing the Atlantic. The water is chilly, and on windy days the wind lifts the sand hard enough to sandblast anyone lying on it.

So the beach is used for walking, riding and sailing more than for sunbathing. That wind makes Essaouira one of Morocco's most popular spots for kitesurfing, windsurfing and surfing, and the kites fill the water on a good afternoon.

Camels and horses carry riders along the water's edge and up toward the dunes. At the far end, where the Oued Ksob meets the sea, a ruined fort stands on the sand, free, unfenced and unstaffed.

Visiting

Two decisions shape a beach day here: which stretch of sand you use, and what the wind is doing that afternoon. Swimmers keep to the medina end, where the sunbeds are and the waves are calmer.

On windy days the kitesurfers can pack the water and the sand blows hard. Use those afternoons for a lesson, a camel or horse ride along the water, or the walk south.

That walk runs about 5 km along the sand from the medina to Diabat village, with the ruined fort near the end. The river mouth is reliably passable only at low tide and can flood after rain, so check the tide first, and turn back for the road if the current looks strong.

Tips

The sun is stronger than it feels in the wind, and the sand has very little shade, so pack sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen. A scarf or a beanie keeps blown sand and sun off your head.

Swimsuits are fine on the beach itself, so carry a cover-up for the walk back into town. Wear shoes you can walk in if you are heading for the river mouth.