Things to do
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Concepción Volcano
Still active and near perfectly conical, the northern of Ometepe's two peaks rises straight from the lake above Altagracia. The ascent is a hard day on loose ash and steep forest, a guide is required, and the summit is often lost in cloud. Starts are before dawn to avoid the afternoon heat. Those without a head for exposure usually stop at the tree line.
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Maderas Volcano
Forest covers the southern peak, dormant and wetter than its neighbour, with a crater lagoon at the top reached through cloud forest and mud. The climb is shorter than Concepción and slippery in every season, and guides are compulsory. Howler monkeys and petroglyphs sit along the lower trail near Balgüe. Boots and a change of clothes make the descent bearable.
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Ometepe Island
Two volcanoes joined by a low isthmus make up this island in Lake Nicaragua, reached by ferry from San Jorge. Plantain farms, petroglyph fields, a spring-fed swimming hole at Ojo de Agua and rough roads between them fill two or three days. Ferries cross in about an hour and can be cancelled in high wind, which is worth building into a tight plan.
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Punta Jesús María
A thin sandbar reaches out into the lake from Ometepe's western shore, long in the dry season and mostly submerged when the water rises. Walking out on it puts both volcanoes in one view, which is why the spot fills at sunset. A few ranchos sell drinks and grilled fish by the shore. The sand is shadeless, so late afternoon suits it best.