Things to do
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Christ of the Mercy
One of the tallest statues of Christ anywhere stands on the headland above San Juan del Sur's bay, arms open towards the Pacific. A road and a flight of steps climb to the base, where the platform looks down the whole crescent of sand. Most visitors come for sunset, when the light sits behind the figure. The gate is locked after dark.
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Playa Hermosa
Wide, grey-sand and backed by forest, this beach south of town charges an entry fee at the gate and keeps the crowds thinner for it. Waves suit beginners and improvers, and a bar and showers sit above the sand. Access is a rough track, usually taken by shuttle or four wheel drive. Sunsets run long here with nothing between the sand and the horizon.
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Playa Maderas
Surfers make the trip north over a dirt road for this beach break, consistent enough to carry the town's surf schools through the year. Shuttles run from San Juan del Sur in the morning and return in the afternoon, which sets the rhythm of a day here. Board rental and lessons wait at the sand. Offshore wind keeps the early session cleanest, which is when the schools go out.
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San Juan del Sur Bay
A horseshoe of sand between two headlands holds the town itself, with fishing boats, a pier and a line of restaurants along the seafront. Swimming is calm here, unlike the surf beaches outside the bay, and the water is used mostly for boat trips and sunset drinks. The bay fills at weekends with Nicaraguan visitors, and Sunday is loud along the front.