Things to do
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Cerro Negro
Black cinder slopes rise out of farmland northeast of Leon, the youngest volcano in Central America and still restless. The climb takes about an hour with a board strapped to the back, and the way down is the point, boarding loose scree at speed. Wind and grit make goggles and long sleeves sensible, and tours leave early to beat the heat.
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León Cathedral
The largest cathedral in Central America stands on León's main square, a white mass of domes and bell towers finished after more than a century of building and now listed by UNESCO. The whitewashed roof is walked barefoot for a view towards the volcano chain. Rubén Darío is buried inside. Roof access closes around midday and shoes come off at the door.
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León Viejo
Founded in 1524 and abandoned after earthquakes and eruptions in 1610, the first Spanish city here lies in low ruins at the foot of Momotombo. Foundations, a church floor and the grave of the conquistador Pedrarias Dávila are what survive, with the volcano and the lake behind them. Shade is scarce and the site bakes by mid morning, so early visits are easier.
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Museum of the Revolution
Veterans of the Sandinista insurrection run this museum in the old Somoza-era palace on the square, guiding visitors through photographs, weapons and their own accounts of the war. The building is half ruined inside, which is part of the effect, and the tour ends on the roof above the cathedral. Guides work in Spanish, with some English, and a tip is expected.