
Ninety seconds on Lake Bohinj
Swimming or paddling across Slovenia's largest natural lake, with mountains on every side, is why you come, and you get it far wilder and quieter than at Bled.
Bohinj is a glacial lake held in by a moraine, about four kilometres long and set inside Triglav National Park. Meltwater keeps it very clear and very cold. The surface warms to 24°C at the height of summer, but a few metres down it feels much colder, and in winter it often freezes.
Springs under the lake bed add much of its water, and the overflow leaves at the eastern end as the Jezernica creek, which joins the Mostnica to form the Sava Bohinjka.
The largest stream comes in at the western end, from the Savica falls on the steep slopes of Komarča. The falls are fed by Črno jezero, a smaller lake higher up, and drop 78 metres in two torrents that make an A shape.
By mid-morning in summer the car parks fill, so reach Ribčev Laz on the eastern shore early; it is where the bus stops and the panoramic boats leave. Walk the north shore west to Ukanc, about an hour at an easy pace. It is the prettier side, and the road runs along the south shore instead.
From Ukanc, the car park below the Savica falls is another hour's walk, and a stepped path climbs from there to the falls. Wear shoes with good grip, since the path turns slick after rain and in late autumn snow can drop from the trees. Ride the boat back to Ribčev Laz if it is running, from mid-April to early November.
Save the afternoon for the water. Swim from the shore, or take a kayak or canoe out for the mountains in every direction. If you would rather walk the whole shore, allow three to four hours with stops.
Mountain weather turns fast here, so keep an hour or two of the day free.
Wild camping on the shore is not allowed, and for July or August the lakeside rooms, apartments and campsites go several months ahead. Expect a municipal tourist tax on top of the room rate.
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