Ljubljana Cathedral

What makes it special

Two bronze doors give the cathedral its first surprise. The front door, under the twin bell towers with their gilded apples, carries Tone Demšar's relief of Slovene history. The side door is Mirsad Begić's, cast with portraits of the twentieth-century bishops of Ljubljana.

Both doors were cast in 1996 for the Pope's visit. On the south wall is a sundial carrying the Latin motto Nescitis diem neque horam: you know neither the day nor the hour.

Inside, the nave ceiling and the half dozen side chapels are covered in Baroque fresco and painting. The ceiling frescoes are the work of Giulio Quaglio, and they fill the vault from end to end.

Stand at the crossing and look up into the octagonal dome. It replaced a dome that had only ever been painted on, and Matevž Langus filled the real one with the Holy Spirit and angels.

Visiting

The visit works from the outside in: circle the church first, from the front door under the bell towers to the side door and the sundial on the south wall. Inside, walk up the nave with your head tipped back, take the side chapels one at a time, and finish under the dome.

Mass is said many times a day, from early morning into the evening. Come in a gap between services, when no Mass is under way and you can walk round freely.

Tips

Cover your shoulders and knees, since a service may be starting as you arrive, and keep your voice low once inside. For the quietest visit, come in the early-afternoon gap between Masses, when the morning services are over.

Allow time for the chapels rather than the nave alone: each one is painted, and they are easy to walk past on the way to the dome.