Monte Tamaro

What makes it special

From outside, Santa Maria degli Angeli does not look like a church. It is a long, compact block of roughly hewn porphyry, the stone of Monte Tamaro itself, stacked like bricks over concrete, and it could pass for a fortress or a water reservoir. Egidio Cattaneo commissioned it from Mario Botta in the 1990s in memory of his wife, who died young.

Two routes lead in. A long ramp climbs off the slope onto the roof of the round chapel below. Beneath it, a lower path runs between two massive stone walls pierced with rounded holes that let in a soft light.

Inside, the paintings are by Enzo Cucchi. A long painted cypress leads you down the nave to the altar, past 22 panels that illustrate old prayers. Behind the altar, two large white hands are painted on a dark blue ground, lit from above.

On the way out, look at the furniture inside, made of wooden planks built up from laminated strips.

Visiting

Stay on the cable car past its first stop, Piano di Mora, where the Adventure Park is, to the top station at Alpe Foppa. The Alpe Foppa restaurant and its large sun terrace are a few metres from the top station, and the chapel is a few steps beyond.

Walk out along the suspended walkway first, for the view. Then follow the cascades of steps down to the prayer room, and leave by the lower path.

The Artistic Walk, a circular path past sculptures by several artists, starts at the chapel. Fit it in before you ride back down.

Tips

Fog does not spoil the chapel. On a misty morning the building appears slowly out of the cloud as you approach, and fog can drift in through its open door.

For a short walk from the restaurant, follow the path uphill to the weather station, 40 minutes to an hour at an average pace. Beyond it the route to the summit, the highest between Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore, turns narrow and rocky, with some scrambling. The ridge traverse to Monte Lema is a long, hard walk; work out how you will get down before you set off.