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The great brick chedi of Wat Chedi Luang in the Old City of Chiang Mai, Thailand
Wat Chedi Luang · one of the temples inside the moat
Town brief · 18.7889°N 98.9833°E

Chiang Mai

Book your nights across a Saturday and a Sunday: on those two evenings roads close for the walking-street markets of crafts, silver and food, and by day the temples inside the moat and the hilltop temple of Doi Suthep are a short walk or ride away.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Chiang Mai

How long
Four nightstwo for the city, two for full days out of town
Getting around
Walk inside the moata ride-hailing car reaches Nimmanhaemin in ten to fifteen minutes
When
November to early Februarybefore the burning-season haze of mid February to April, with the lantern festival in November
Language
ThaiNorthern Thai is spoken alongside it
Money
The Thai baht, THBcarry cash for market stalls and small shops
Airports
Chiang Mai CNXabout fifty flights a day from Bangkok
How long

How many days do you need in Chiang Mai?

Four nights. Two days cover the temples of the Old City and Wat Phra That Doi Suthep on its mountain, and two go to full days out at Doi Inthanon National Park and Elephant Nature Park. With fewer nights, pick either Doi Inthanon or Elephant Nature Park.

Getting around

How do you get around Chiang Mai?

The Old City inside the moat is compact and easiest to walk, and ride-hailing cars cover the rest of the city. Shared songthaews, converted pickup trucks, run set routes out of town: white ones leave Warorot market for the umbrella workshops of Bo Sang, about half an hour away. The airport sits about 3 km south-west of the Old City, and a city bus links the two from 06.00 to 23.30.

When

When is the best time to visit Chiang Mai?

November to early February, before the burning-season haze that runs from mid February to April. Yi Peng, the lantern festival, falls on a November full moon and runs together with Loy Krathong over several days, with dates that change each year. Releasing a sky lantern is banned across large parts of the province, so check where a release is allowed before buying one.

Language

What language is spoken in Chiang Mai?

Thai. Central Thai is the official language, and Northern Thai is the everyday speech in Chiang Mai and across the north.

Money

What currency does Chiang Mai use?

The Thai baht, code THB. Small shops may not take cards, including many in the craft villages outside the city, so cash covers the markets and the day trips.

Airports

Which airport do you fly into for Chiang Mai?

Chiang Mai International, CNX, the fourth largest airport in Thailand, with flights from Bangkok of about an hour and ten minutes. Allow at least two hours at the airport before a departing flight. Overland, ten trains a day run up from Bangkok, and most overnight journeys take twelve to fifteen hours.

On a first visit, sleep inside the moat or within a block or two of it, where the temples and most guesthouses sit a short walk apart. Beds well to the north or south leave you a ride from everything, and the Night Bazaar end of town is loud with traffic and music. On a return trip, Nimmanhaemin, the district of cafes to the west, makes the better base.

For Doi Suthep, take a red shared songthaew from Chang Phueak market or from near Chiang Mai University, about thirty to forty-five minutes each way. Avoid the hours from about eleven until two, when the tour buses fill the temple. Then climb the 309 steps of the naga staircase or ride the funicular, with shoulders covered and no shorts or short skirts.

Doi Inthanon is about two hours each way by car, so it takes the whole day; hire a driver rather than a scooter for the winding mountain roads. Its Kew Mae Pan ridge trail opens only from November to May.

In the burning season, from mid February to April and worst in March, check the air-quality reading each morning and plan your time outdoors around it. Pack an N95 or FFP2 mask, since a cloth or surgical one does nothing against the fine particles, and book a room with a good air purifier. Songkran, from 13 to 15 April, books the town out, so book early for that week.

Things to do

12
  1. Chiang Mai Night Bazaar

    Chiang Mai Night Bazaar

    Market · 2 hr

    Stalls fill Chang Khlan Road every evening from about six, on the strip between the moat and the Ping River, selling hill-tribe textiles, carved wood, lanterns and painted portraits. Food courts and bar terraces sit behind the street frontage. Bargaining is normal here, and much of the same stock turns up on Sunday at the walking street inside the old city.

  2. Doi Inthanon National Park

    Doi Inthanon National Park

    Park · 8 hr

    Thailand's highest ground rises to 2,565 metres inside this park, about two hours southwest of the city by road. The summit itself is a wooded bog with a boardwalk and no view, while the twin royal pagodas below it open onto the range. Wachirathan and Mae Ya falls sit on the way up. Dawn temperatures near the top fall close to freezing in December and January.

  3. Elephant Nature Park

    Elephant Nature Park

    Wildlife Sanctuary · 8 hr

    Rescued elephants live loose in a river valley in Mae Taeng, an hour or so north of the city, at a sanctuary co-founded in the 1990s by Sangduen Chailert. Visits are observational: feeding and walking with the herd, with no riding and no performance. Day trips include transport from Chiang Mai and book out weeks ahead in the high season.

  4. Songkran

    Songkran

    Event · 8 hr

    From the 12th you will rarely stay dry anywhere in the old city, so seal your phone in a bag before you step out. Head to Tha Phae Gate for the biggest water fight and to Wat Phra Singh for the temple ceremonies.

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  5. Nimmanhaemin

    Neighborhood · 2 hr

    West of the Old City lies the modern side of Chiang Mai, a district of cafes laid out along Nimmanhaemin Road. Come in the afternoon for coffee and a slower pace after a morning at the temples of the Old City. It also makes the better base for a longer stay in Chiang Mai.

  6. Old City

    Old Town · 3 hr

    Inside the square moat lies the walled core of Chiang Mai, compact enough to cross on foot, with the great brick chedi of Wat Chedi Luang among its temples. On Sunday evenings its main street, Ratchadamnoen Road, closes to traffic for the walking-street market of crafts and food.

  7. Saturday Walking Street

    Market · 1.5 hr

    Wualai Road, just south of the Old City, closes to traffic on Saturday evenings for a weekend market known for silver jewellery, decorative pieces and fine metalwork. It falls on the night before the Sunday market inside the walls, so a stay across the weekend takes in both.

  8. Sunday Walking Street

    Market · 2 hr

    Every Sunday from five in the afternoon, Ratchadamnoen Road inside the Old City closes to traffic for a kilometre, and stalls of handmade crafts, paintings, souvenirs and food fill it until half past ten. It runs through the middle of the walled city, a short walk from most of the guesthouses inside the moat.

  9. Warorot Market

    Market · 1.5 hr

    Kad Luang, as the city calls it, has traded on Wichayanon Road since 1910 and remains the market locals shop in. Sai ua sausage, nam phrik num and dried fruit fill the ground floor, while fabric and clothing fill the upper ones. Flower stalls run along the river behind it. Mornings are the busiest hours, and much of the food is gone by late afternoon.

  10. Wat Chedi Luang

    Temple · 30 min

    Half a brick mountain stands in the middle of this compound: a fifteenth-century chedi that rose above eighty metres until an earthquake took its top in 1545. The Emerald Buddha now in Bangkok sat in its eastern niche for eighty years. Chiang Mai's city pillar stands in a hall on the same grounds, which women may not enter.

  11. Wat Phra Singh

    Temple · 30 min

    Lan Na woodwork is the draw at this temple inside the old city walls, founded in 1345 to hold a king's ashes and named for the Phra Singh Buddha image enshrined here. The small Lai Kham hall behind the main viharn carries murals of nineteenth-century northern dress and daily life. At Songkran the image is paraded through the streets.

  12. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

    Temple · 2 hr

    A naga staircase of about three hundred steps climbs to the gilded chedi on the mountain, fifteen kilometres from the city and roughly a thousand metres up. The temple dates from 1383 and holds a relic said to have been carried there by a white elephant. A funicular runs for anyone avoiding the steps. Haze often hides the city view between March and May.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap
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