Phaselis

What makes it special

Phaselis sits on a small peninsula with three harbours. Its main street crosses the neck of land to the mainland, running from the North Harbour to the South Harbour. That made it the leading port of eastern Lycia, and almost everything still standing is Roman.

The city's public buildings line both sides of the street: two agoras, a large and a small bath, a latrine and a monumental fountain. In the small baths, look down at the rows of low pillars. They held the floor up so hot air from a furnace could heat the room and its water from below.

Stones along the street carry Lycian inscriptions honouring the city's soldiers and athletes. Hadrian's Gate, dedicated to the emperor's visit in AD 131, marks the south end of the street. It was the way in for sailors and cargo coming up from the South Harbour.

The first ruin you meet is the aqueduct beside the parking area, about 450 metres long and the oldest structure standing on the site. The city lies between the Bey Mountains and the woods of Olympos National Park.

Visiting

Buy your ticket at the office on the pine road in, then carry on down to the parking area by the sea. From there, follow the main street across the neck of land, looking into the baths and agoras on either side.

Signs are few, so stop at the large wooden map near the theatre, which lists what each building was. Then climb the wooden steps into the theatre and take a seat in the rows.

Finish at the South Harbour, the longest stretch of shore and the best place to swim. It has the showers, toilets and changing cabins, so it is also the busiest bay, and the day-trip boats tie up here. The water stays shallow a long way out, so expect to wade before you can swim.

Tips

Remains of the ancient harbours lie under the water, and fish feed along the rocky edges, so a mask and snorkel earn their place. Add water shoes for the rockier stretches of shore.

The beaches have no sun loungers or umbrellas, but the pines behind them give shade. A snack bar sells soft drinks and sandwiches; for a longer day, bring a blanket and a picnic, since barbecues are not allowed. Off the paths, old cisterns lie unmarked in the scrub, so keep to the tracks.