
Ninety seconds on Iglesia de San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro's church is the largest of the old adobe churches in the Atacama villages, and a few minutes inside show you how desert builders worked with mud and cactus wood.
Outside, the walls are thick adobe on a stone foundation, plastered with mud and straw and painted white. The door is cactus wood, painted bright blue.
Inside, the plan is a Latin cross: one long, narrow nave, with a side chapel on each arm of the crossing. Look up. The ceiling is covered in cactus wood, and the timber frame of local desert trees (algarrobo and chañar) and cactus is lashed together with strips of leather.
The church has been enlarged and partly rebuilt after earthquakes and fires. The adobe bell tower beside it dates from the 1960s, when it replaced an older wooden tower. The church is now a protected national monument.
From the plaza you walk straight in through the blue door. There is no ticket, and a small donation for upkeep is welcome.
Walk the length of the nave to the crossing, where the side chapels open to the left and right, then look up at the ceiling on your way back out.
Mass is held at 19:00 Monday to Saturday.
Afterwards, the square outside has a few artisans' stalls and cafés where you can sit in the shade. The church is often lit up after dark, so pass by again on your way to dinner.
A return from a morning tour in the middle of the day can find the door shut. The morning or the late afternoon, when the sun is off the plaza, is the safer time to go.
It is an active place of worship, so dress modestly, keep your voice low and stay at the back if a service has begun.
Explore the rest of San Pedro de Atacama

An adobe oasis at 2,400 metres at the northern end of the Salar de Atacama, and the base for almost everything a visitor reaches in the…

An ancient salt lake bed, lifted and folded by the earth and carved by wind and water into ridges, dunes and salt flats, west of San Pedro…

A low adobe lodge on old farmland at the edge of town, built around courtyards, a stable and four pools, with guided exploration counted…