Ninety seconds on Eguisheim
Worth the short trip from Colmar for its plan alone: the village was built in rings around its castle, so you walk curving lanes of flowered, half-timbered houses that keep bringing you back to the chapel in the middle.
Every lane curves around the centre, because the village grew in rings around its castle and has kept that plan. Half-timbered houses hung with flowers line both sides, and if you are lucky you will see a stork in one of the rooftop nests.
At the centre, all that is left of the castle is an octagonal enclosure wall. You cannot go into the ruin, but you can enter the Saint-Léon Chapel beside it, built to honour Pope Leo IX, who was born in the village and whose relics it holds. Look up once inside: medallions painted in an eleventh-century style fill the vault with seven scenes from his life.
The village is ranked among the Most Beautiful Villages of France. The ruins of three more castles, the Trois-Châteaux, stand about 5 km west of it, an outing of their own rather than part of the village loop.
Starting from the north car park, you follow the signed discovery circuit along the streets that circle the historic centre. A trail of nine information plaques explains the village as you go, and the plaque at the rue de l'Allimend Sud gate carries a QR code about the old town gates.
Look out for the Porte Basse Fountain on the way round. Then make for the centre, where the Saint-Léon Fountain, the castle wall and the chapel stand together.
Go into the chapel and look up at the vault. Then take a seat on a terrace on the castle square for a tarte flambée and a glass of local wine.
The little tourist train gives a guided tour of the village and the vineyard around it, leaving from the Parking de la Mairie. Check the departure times locally before you plan around it. The village itself is easy to follow on your own with the signed circuit.
Several producers pour tastings in converted cellars or family living rooms inside the village. The vineyards around it include two Grand Crus, Eichberg and Pfersigberg, so ask for those by name.
If the north car park is full, use the Parking de la Mairie on the south side, which has the public toilets. On busy days, come on a weekday and take the shuttle buses instead of driving in.
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