
Ninety seconds on Kaysersberg
One climb sets Kaysersberg apart from its neighbours: 122 steps up the round keep of a ruined castle, with the roofs, the vineyards and the Weiss valley spread out below you.
Find the fortified bridge over the Weiss first: it is the only fortified bridge in Alsace. It joined the old town to the upper town and was built so that an enemy could not use the river as a way in.
Above the roofs, the ruins of the imperial castle stand on the Schlossberg, about 50 metres higher than the historic centre. Its round keep is one of the oldest in Alsace, with walls more than 4 metres thick.
Back in town, look for the square Kessler Tower, one of the easiest buildings to pick out. Albert Schweitzer, winner of the Nobel Peace Prize, was born in the town, and his birth house is now an interpretation centre on the theme of peace.
The slopes around the town are among the best vineyards in Alsace. Pinot gris is the local specialty, so make it the wine you order here.
Kaysersberg’s sights sit on or just off one main street, so the visit is a single walk with a climb in the middle. Leave the car in one of the public car parks around the edge of the old town and walk in.
Stop at the Centre Schweitzer, pass the Kessler Tower, then go down to the fortified bridge and cross the Weiss.
From the old town, two staircases and a path through the vineyards lead up to the castle, about a 15-minute walk. Any of the three reaches the ruin, so go up by one and come down by another. At the top, climb the staircase inside the round keep for the view over the town and the valley.
Sunny summer weekends are the busiest days, so pick a weekday if your plans allow. Car parks ring the old town, so read the signs at the one you choose before you leave the car.
There is little to see inside the castle itself, so go up for the view, and time it for sunset if you can. At the Christmas market, aim to arrive as the stalls open, ahead of the crowds that build by early afternoon.
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