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Ninety seconds on Dimmuborgir
A field of black lava towers, arches and small caves lies on Mývatn's east shore, and its longest marked loop brings you to Kirkjan, the formation known as the church.
The towers, arches and walls are what was left when a lava lake drained away about 2,300 years ago. Water vapour escaping through the cooling lava built the columns you walk between.
Along the paths you pass dark towers, low arches, small caves and rough rock walls. Some chambers are big enough to stand inside. That is where the name comes from: borgir means castles.
Kirkjan, the church, is the best-known formation in the field: a lava cave shaped like a ruined chapel.
In snow the field turns black and white, dark rock against white ground. Much of the fine detail disappears under it, but the large towers stay in sight.
From the entrance, five colour-coded loops set out into the lava, and a map at every crossing shows where you are. The café, gift shop and toilets stand beside the car park.
With half an hour, walk the white Small Circle, about 600 metres, to the Borgarskora channel and the main formations. For the most striking formations on a short walk, follow the blue trail. With an hour, take the red Church Circle, about 2.3 km, to reach Kirkjan.
In winter only the nearest loop is kept clear, because the others run among rocks that cannot be cleared of snow. Further out the paths grow faint and can vanish under snow, so turn back when you lose the line of the trail.
Even the main path is uneven lava, so wear sturdy shoes. In winter, carry ice spikes or cleats to pull over them.
In summer, carry a waterproof jacket, and a head net if midges bother you. It is easy to lose your bearings among the formations, so note the colour of your loop before you set out.
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