Ninety seconds on Blue Lagoon
One soak in warm, milky blue water among black lava can open or close your trip to Iceland: the lagoon sits on the road between Keflavík airport and Reykjavík, so it fits the hours after an early landing or before a late flight.
The lagoon is man-made, and that explains most of what you see. Its water is runoff from the Svartsengi geothermal power station next door, which draws superheated water from the ground beside a lava flow.
Silica is what turns the water a milky, pale turquoise, and it smells only faintly of sulphur. Black lava banks stand high around the pool.
Close up, it looks more like a sprawling resort pool than a wild spring. It is one large pool divided by curving walls, bridges and small waterfalls, so you can wade into quieter sections.
In winter, steam rises off the water while snow lies on the lava around it. The silica is part of the bathing too: it is the mud you wear as a mask.
Arrive inside the one-hour entry window on your ticket, because every visit is a pre-booked slot. At check-in you get a waterproof wristband that opens your locker and pays for anything you buy, and once in there is no time limit.
Shower without your swimsuit before you go in, as at every pool in Iceland; the changing rooms have private cubicles with shower gel and conditioner. Work conditioner through your hair and keep it out of the water, because silica leaves long hair stiff and dry.
You wade out to the lagoon through a water passage from the changing rooms, out of the wind. Drinks and the mask come from swim-up windows: one drink is included, and you leave the mud on for five to ten minutes, then rinse it off in the lagoon.
Hand the wristband back on the way out and settle whatever you charged to it. Children must be at least two, and under eights wear the armbands handed out on site.
Book several days ahead in summer, when early slots sell out, and take the first slot of the day if you can. The lines and the crowd in the water build after that first hour, and outside summer the lagoon can stay quiet.
Diving is banned everywhere, and alcohol at the bar is capped at three drinks.
Allow time to rinse at the end, because the mask is stickier and harder to wash off than you might expect.
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