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Ninety seconds on Santuario di Nostra Signora della Salute
Worth the climb out of Manarola for a small stone church at the top of the vineyard terraces, where you can sit a few quiet minutes above the sea before walking on to Corniglia or riding the bus back down.
The church stands in Volastra, the hill village about 300 metres above Manarola, among terraces, vineyards and olive trees. Its Romanesque facade is plain stone, with a pointed-arch doorway and a small twin-light window above it.
Inside is a single nave built of regular, squared stone blocks. The church is first recorded in 1240, and it is one stop on the Via dei Santuari, a route linking five churches in the hills.
A local legend says the richest families of Volastra once buried the church bells, so the shine of the metal would not draw Saracen pirates to the village.
This is a small village church rather than a grand one. The draw is the whole setting: the stone front, the plain nave and the vine terraces falling away below it toward the sea.
Climbing from Manarola is the usual way in, on the marked path that leaves the village. The first stretch is a gentle stairway beside the provincial road.
The steps then steepen through the vineyards and end at a fountain just inside Volastra, where you can refill a bottle. The church is a short walk on. Look at the facade and its pointed doorway first, then step into the nave.
Volastra has a small shop, a second fountain and a restaurant that usually closes through the afternoon, so plan lunch around it. From the church, the bus runs back down to Manarola.
Back in Manarola, the parish church holds the 15th century triptych that once hung here: San Lorenzo between Sant'Antonio Abate and San Bernardino, attributed to the Master of the Cinque Terre.
Walking between Corniglia and Manarola, you can take the inland route through Volastra, which passes the church. The Corniglia side is the gentler climb, which puts the steep Manarola steps on your way down.
The steps are narrow and uneven in parts, so take them slowly. The vigil Mass is at 16.00 on Saturdays, so visit outside that hour.
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