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Ninety seconds on Dōtonbori
Go after dark to see the giant three-dimensional signs above the Dōtonbori canal at full glow, on the street at the heart of Minami, the shopping district of southern Osaka.
Dōtonbori is a canal and the street beside it in Minami, the business and shopping district of southern Osaka. The street grew up around its theatres and Kabuki, and the Shochikuza theatre still stands on it. Today the frontages carry giant three-dimensional signs.
The Glico running man, arms raised, has stood at the same spot just west of Ebisubashi bridge since 1935. Elsewhere on the street, a 6.5-metre mechanical crab flexes its legs and claws on a loop.
Down by the water, the Tombori River Walk follows the south bank of the canal, and at night the neon lies reflected on its surface. About 600 metres of the walk are open, from Ebisubashi to Nipponbashi plus a section at Minatomachi.
The street is a dense run of street food stalls, and Osaka claims takoyaki as its own invention.
After sunset, start on Ebisubashi and take the photograph with the canal and the signs behind you. The bridge is rarely empty, so expect to wait a moment for a clear spot.
Then go down to the Tombori River Walk for the reflections. It is less crowded than the street above, and its benches let you frame a photograph without dodging the crowd.
Walk back up to eat: takoyaki first, then okonomiyaki or kushikatsu, buying from one counter at a time and putting packaging and skewers in that vendor's own bin. If you want the view from the water as well, finish with the short canal cruise.
No guide is needed on the street. The one organised option is the Tombori River Cruise, a ticketed ride of about 20 minutes from Tazaemonbashi Pier. Boats leave on the hour and the half hour from 11:00 to 21:00, so check the timetable on the day.
Tickets are sold at the pier booth, which opens an hour before the first boat, and an online booking option exists. Phone bookings are not taken. Young children and Osaka e-pass holders ride free.
Two boats run this canal under similar names. Only the Tombori River Cruise from Tazaemonbashi Pier is covered by the Osaka e-pass, so check the name on the boat and the ticket before you pay. Resellers list the same cruise at a higher price, so buy at the pier or through the official channel.
Carry some cash: many places take cards, but small street vendors and some restaurants prefer cash or an IC card. Late evenings and weekend nights bring the thickest crowds, so if you need room to move, walk one block parallel to the main street, or come on a weekday evening.
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