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Ninety seconds on Mogren Beach
Yes. There is no entry fee to either cove, and the only charges are for renting a sunbed and umbrella, which both coves offer. Some stretches of sand have no sunbeds at all, so a towel laid out there costs nothing.
On foot, along a concrete path about 350 metres long that starts at Hotel Avala, next to the Old Town. It runs past the Ballerina statue and round the foot of the cliffs, a walk of ten to fifteen minutes. No road reaches the beach itself, so every arrival ends on foot.
Sandy. Mogren is two small coves of fine sand joined by a short tunnel through the rock, with rocks only at the edges. The sand carries on under the water, so both coves have a soft, gradual walk into the sea.
It can be, in a southerly wind. When wind from the south brings strong waves, the cliff path is unsafe and should be avoided, and it can be closed while the sea is up. Waves also wash through the tunnel between the coves in those conditions. Winds from the north, east and west leave the south-facing beach sheltered.
Two small sandy coves lie under limestone cliffs just west of Budva's old town. You walk there along the cliff and swim in very clear water, sheltered from the wind on three sides.
Facing south, the beach is sheltered from the north, east and west winds. Together the two coves make about 350 metres of sand, some 4,500 square metres in all, under limestone cliffs, only a few hundred metres from the walls of the Old Town.
Come in the morning. Sun reaches the sand from early on, and in the late afternoon the cliffs put the beach in shade sooner than the open beaches along the bay. Arrive after lunch and you get a shorter afternoon in the sun.
The sea is very clear in both coves. The same sand that covers the beach carries on under the water, so at both coves you walk straight in from the shore.
Past the Ballerina statue, the path follows the cliffs above the sea and arrives at the first cove. This is the organised one, with loungers for hire and a café.
Take a lounger here if you want a drink within reach. Otherwise go through the short tunnel in the rock to the second cove, which is smaller, wilder and quieter. Loungers are for hire there too, or you can lay your own mat.
Do not use the tunnel when the sea is rough, because waves wash through it. Spend the morning swimming and lying out, then walk back along the cliff path.
Wear sandals with grip for the walk, not flip-flops. Pack water shoes too if your feet are sensitive.
There are rocks under the surface in places, so stay inside the marked swimming areas. Cliff jumping goes on here: jump only from designated spots, and check the depth first.
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