Church of St. John the Baptist, Bohinj

What makes it special

The church was built before 1300. The Baroque bell tower and entrance porch were added in the 18th century, so you see Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque in one building.

Inside, about 72 saints and other scenes cover the walls and arches, the oldest from the 13th century. Look for the angels baring their teeth, and for two devils painted white rather than black.

The one to find is on the inside of the triumphal arch, in the scene of Cain and Abel. A white devil sits behind Cain's neck and whispers to him about murder. Above it, a later scene shows the two brothers presenting their offerings to God.

The outside matters as much. The southern outer wall carries St Christopher, patron of travellers, painted three times in three layers, one over another. Look closely and count his toes: on one layer he has six.

Visiting

Start outside on the south wall before you go in. Then buy your ticket at the church, which comes with an audio guide so you can take the paintings at your own pace.

Inside, work round the walls first and give each scene time, as the layers of painting reward a slow look. Leave the chancel arch, with the scene of Cain and Abel, for last.

A combined ticket also covers the belfry when it is open, for views over the church, the lake and the mountains. It has been closed for maintenance, so ask whether it has reopened when you buy your ticket.

Guided or on your own

Guides work at the church mainly in the high summer season, for visitors who want the paintings explained in person. Groups can also visit outside opening hours by arrangement. Ask at the church whether a guide is working on the day.

Tips

If you are short of time, or the church is shut, the outside is still worth the stop. The paintings on the south wall can be seen at any hour from the path round the church.

Children up to 12 enter free. Take in the stone bridge beside the church before you set off along the shore.