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Ninety seconds on Tolmin Gorges
Two Alpine rivers meet in a pair of narrow gorges here, and a single trail carries you to the point where they join, across the high Devil's Bridge and past a warm spring rising in ice-cold water.
The Tolminka and the Zadlaščica each cut a narrow gorge here, and the trail opens with a view over the point where they meet. At 180 metres above sea level, that confluence is the lowest point of Triglav National Park. It is also where the gorge is at its narrowest.
Look for the thermal spring, marked by a small sign. Rainwater seeps deep underground, warms in the earth's heat and comes back up through cracks in the rock at 18.8 to 20.8°C. The Tolminka beside it runs at around 5 to 9°C.
Up the Zadlaščica, Bear's Head is a large boulder wedged between the canyon walls, shaped like a bear's head. The Devil's Bridge crosses the Tolminka far above the water. It was first built in wood in 1907 and later replaced in iron.
Dante's Cave, cut by water through the rock, is the gorge's other famous site, and you can only go inside with an experienced, certified caving guide. Local tradition holds that Dante stayed nearby in the 14th century and drew on it for the Hell of his Divine Comedy.
Tolmin Gorges are walked one way, on a trail of about 2 km that starts at the ticket office and brings you back round to it. Collect the overview map there, then take the staircase down towards the water.
Railings line the whole route, but expect a steady run of steps, climbs and descents rather than a level stroll. The view over the confluence comes at the very start, and Bear's Head and the Devil's Bridge are both on the loop. If your slot is sold out when you arrive, you wait for the next open one.
The map and the signs are enough to walk the gorges on your own. If you want the place explained, a guided walk for individual visitors has run on Mondays in July and August at 1 pm, and you do not need to register for it.
Wear shoes with a good grip: the tunnels near the narrow gorge stay wet and very slippery. The thermal spring is so inconspicuous that you can walk straight past it, and it shows best when the river is low, so look for it after a dry spell.
Swimming is not banned, but the water is very cold and shallow. Dogs come in free on a lead for the whole visit, and holders of the Julian Alps: Soča Valley card enter free.
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