Old Town

What makes it special

St. Pierre Cathedral stands at the highest point of the Old Town. Only the medieval stained glass survives from before the Reformation. Look in the right transept for Calvin's preaching chair.

Under the floor lies the largest archaeological site north of the Alps. The cathedral was built on the foundations of a 4th-century basilica, and the remains of earlier churches sit beneath it. At the lowest level you can see wells, wheat processing areas and tombs of the Celtic Allobroges.

A short walk away, Maison Tavel is the oldest private house in Geneva and holds the Museum of Urban History and Daily Life. On its top floor, the Magnin Relief is a huge model of the old city, still ringed by its walls.

On the south side of the hill, the Promenade de la Treille runs along the old fortifications under chestnut trees, with a long wooden bench that is often called the longest in the world. Below it, in the Parc des Bastions, the Reformation Wall carries giant statues of Calvin, Farel, Beza and Knox under the city motto, Post Tenebras Lux.

Visiting

Before 10.30 in the morning, the walk up from Place du Molard to St. Pierre Cathedral at the top runs through quiet lanes. The nave is free, while the tower and the archaeological site are ticketed, and one combination ticket covers both.

Climb the north tower first, on a narrow stone spiral, and allow half an hour with the queue and the way down. Then go below into the archaeological site. A sign at the start explains the coloured plaques, each colour marking one period, so you can tell which church each wall belongs to.

From the cathedral, walk to Maison Tavel and look for the five cannons under the arches nearby. Inside, go straight to the top floor for the Magnin Relief, then work down. Finish on Place du Bourg-de-Four and leave by the Promenade de la Treille, taking the steps down into the Parc des Bastions to see the Reformation Wall.

Guided or on your own

Geneva Tourism lists a two-hour public walking tour of the Old Town, in French and English, with a Saturday 2pm departure. It meets at the National Monument in the Jardin Anglais, by the lake. Check the tourism office at Cornavin station for the current schedule.

Most of the old passages under the town are closed, and a few open only on guided tours, so ask when you book whether the walk includes one. Private tours in more than 20 languages can be arranged through the same office. On your own, download the free audio guide for Maison Tavel.

Tips

Wear flat shoes with grip. The climb from the lake is short but steep, and heels catch between the cobbles.

Come back in the late afternoon for an aperitif on the terraces of Place du Bourg-de-Four. In December, a lane that stays shut the rest of the year opens during the Escalade festival, usually the second weekend of the month.

If you stay in a Geneva hotel, hostel or campsite, ask at check-in for the free transport card. It covers the buses and trams, including the ride up the hill.