Lake Çıldır

What makes it special

Çıldır is the largest freshwater lake in Eastern Anatolia, 123 square kilometres of water on the provincial line between Kars and Ardahan, close to the borders with Georgia and Armenia. It lies at 1,959 metres, ringed by mountains and bare grazing land, and its deepest point is 42 metres. On a clear day the mountains stand over the frozen surface on every side.

The lake freezes over in winter, and fishing is its main trade. Through the cold months the fishers break through the thick ice and fish the holes, with carp the main catch. Look for the holes as you cross the ice, and for the carp being pulled up through them.

Visiting

Early in the winter there is nothing to ride. The sleigh operators open their season only once the ice reaches 25 to 30 centimetres, so until then the lake is a view from the shore.

Once the ice holds, you have two ways out onto the lake. You can take a horse sleigh across the frozen part, a short ride of about ten minutes, or walk out on the ice from the shore.

Allow about two hours at the lake in all. Plan that time around your ride back to town, because the dolmuş, not the ice, decides when you leave.

Guided or on your own

Ice fishing is the one part of the visit you cannot do on your own. To go out with the fishers, phone one of the fishers who work the lake before you set off for Çıldır, and agree the outing in advance.

Tips

If you come by dolmuş, ask the driver before you board what time it reaches the lake and what time it passes back. Get this settled first, or you risk being left on the shore with no way back to town.