
Ninety seconds on Catacombs of Paris
It is the one hour in Paris you will spend twenty metres underground. You walk old quarry tunnels where the bones of several million Parisians are stacked into walls, with skulls set in rows.
The ossuary begins at a doorway with a carved warning over it: "Arrête, c'est ici l'empire de la mort", or Stop, here is the empire of death. Past it, the walls on both sides are made of bones. The face you see is rows of thigh and shin bones laid end on, broken by bands of skulls, with the smaller bones piled out of sight behind.
These tunnels were once the limestone quarries that gave Paris its building stone, and in 1786 the city consecrated them as its municipal ossuary.
Look between the walls for the monuments the inspector Héricart de Thury set among the bones: Doric columns, altars, steles and tombs in Antique and Egyptian styles. Plaques along the galleries carry religious and poetic texts.
Along the route, look for the old well the quarrymen drew their water from, with coins lying in it. The renovated lighting picks out the bones and the hidden details in the walls, so stop at each lit plaque and stele and look closely.
The ticket is online only, with timed slots on sale seven days ahead that cannot be changed or refunded. Outside summer, a few last-minute tickets are released online on the day. Check the time slot on your ticket before you set out.
At your slot, queue outside the entrance pavilion with your ticket. Only 200 visitors are allowed underground at once, so entry can pause on a busy day.
The audio guide comes with a paid ticket, in French, English, Spanish or German, and starts on its own as you move. A long stair takes you down into the galleries, where you follow one gated route with no way into the closed tunnels.
At the end you climb back up and come out on avenue René-Coty, nearly 700 metres from where you went in. The site runs no guided tours at present, so the audio guide is your commentary.
Bring a jacket, comfortable shoes with grip and a bag no larger than 40x30x20 cm, worn at your front or side. Strollers, motorcycle helmets and tripods are turned away, and there is no cloakroom because you leave by a different door.
Use the toilets before you go down, because there are none until the exit, and do not eat or drink on the circuit. Photos are allowed without flash. Do not touch the bones.
Free tickets, such as those for children under eight, cannot be booked online. Collect yours at the front desk on the day, with proof of eligibility. If the official slots sell out, buy only from the authorised sellers listed on the Catacombs website.
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