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Ninety seconds on Bourtzi
Yes. Restoration works on the fortress finished in 2021, and it is now open to visitors daily, apart from a few public holidays listed by the Ministry of Culture.
Hours change by season, and the Ministry of Culture listing is the one to check before a visit. The Ministry gives 9am to 5pm daily from November to March, 6pm in April and May, 9pm in July and August and 8pm in September. June and October close later at weekends.
Entry is free on 6 March, 18 April and 18 May, and on the first and third Sunday of each month from November to March.
A local guide lists boats every day: from 9am, with the last return at 8pm, until the end of October, and from 9:15am to 4pm through the winter.
Take a small boat across Nafplio harbour to the Venetian castle that fills its own islet, then walk the stone walls that once guarded the narrow way in from the gulf.
Bourtzi is a small fortified islet at the mouth of Nafplio's harbour, and a characteristic piece of Venetian military architecture. From the boat you see an octagonal tower ringed by gun platforms, placed to command the narrow way into the port.
The name Bourtzi means island fortress. The Venetians once strung a great chain from the islet to the shore to close that entrance, and the harbour became known as the harbour of the chain.
Later the rock became the home of the town executioner and his family for some seventy years, set apart from Nafplio across the water.
Inside, the masonry is thick, there are only two points of entry, and the gun platforms serve as lookouts over the harbour and the gulf.
Walk down to the quay along Akti Miaouli, on the seafront by the old town, where small passenger boats wait. The Ephorate of Antiquities lists the fortress as reached by boat from the harbour, and travel guides put the crossing at 10 to 20 minutes each way.
Guides say you pay the boatman separately from the castle ticket, and that in summer the boats leave about every half hour.
At the fortress, buy your entry and walk the ramparts at your own pace before you cross back to the quay.
The rock has no shade, so in July and August avoid the middle of the day and cross in the late afternoon instead.
For the classic view of the castle, stay on the waterfront at sunset, when Bourtzi sits lit on the water with the gulf behind it. Palamidi, the hilltop fortress above the town, also looks down on it.
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