Things to do
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Stoupa
A seaside village south of Kardamyli built around two sandy bays, a contrast to the pebble coves elsewhere on this coast. Tavernas line the main beach, and the smaller bay of Kalogria lies a short walk north. The writer Nikos Kazantzakis lived here briefly, the time that inspired Zorba the Greek. Water stays shallow and calm for some way out.
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Agia Sophia
An old stone path climbs from the village to the church of Agia Sophia, the usual way into the Vyros Gorge on foot. Past the church the trail runs up the gorge to the monastery of Moni Sotiros. Walk only as far as the church, or carry on.
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Areopoli
The main town of the inner Mani, built of grey stone, with tower houses along narrow lanes and the church of the Taxiarches, with relief carvings on its gate and altar arch. The 1821 uprising against Ottoman rule was declared there. Below the town, the tiny harbour of Limeni has clear water and seafood tavernas. The drive south from Kardamyli takes about an hour.
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Delfinia Beach
On the road towards Stoupa, 5 km from the centre of Kardamyli, Delfinia runs for about 170 metres of dark pebbles and sand. The water is calm. Park off the road at the top of the track and walk down; a café stands at the entrance.
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Diros Caves
A boatman punts small flat boats through the flooded passages of the Vlychada cave, between stalactites that hang almost to the water. The ride covers over a kilometre underground, followed by a short walk out. The caves sit on the shore south of Areopoli. They open year round, with shorter hours in winter, and queues build on summer days.
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Exochori
Twenty minutes' drive inland from Kardamyli, the hill village of Exochori is a starting point for walking routes into the Vyros Gorge. Trails from the area run along the gorge rim or down onto its floor. The drive up is the alternative to the old path on foot from the village.
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Foneas Beach
A small pebble cove between Kardamyli and Stoupa, framed by a large rock that splits the bay in two. The water is clear and deep, good for snorkelling along the rocks. A steep path drops from the coast road to the beach, and parking on the verge is limited. There is a summer café, with little shade on the stones.
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Kalogria Beach
For sand on this coast, drive 6.5 km south to Kalogria, beside Stoupa, the organised beach of the two there. The sand is fine and white and the water shallow and clear, though noticeably cold. Tavernas back the beach, and canoes, sea bikes and watersports are for hire.
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Leigh Fermor House
The house the writer Patrick Leigh Fermor built with his wife Joan stands above the sea at Kalamitsi, just south of the village. Now cared for by the Benaki Museum, it keeps their books, furniture and terraces much as they left them. Visits run as short guided tours on set days, booked online in advance. For part of the year the house is also let to guests.
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Limeni
Turquoise water and seafood tavernas round the tiny harbour of Limeni, just below Areopoli and about an hour's drive south of Kardamyli. It makes the natural lunch stop on a day spent in the deep Mani, before Areopoli or on the way back from the Diros Caves.
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Mourtzinos Tower
On the slope above the modern village, the walled enclosure of Old Kardamyli holds a stone tower, a fortified family house and the church of Agios Spyridon with its tall carved bell tower. The restored house now holds a small exhibition on the history and architecture of the Mani. The church dates from around 1700. Entry to the tower complex is ticketed.
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Ritsa Beach
Coarse white pebbles run along the eastern side of the village at Ritsa, Kardamyli's own beach, about 600 metres from the centre and an easy walk from the harbour. The clear water deepens sharply. A large part of the shore is set out with umbrellas and sunbeds.
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Vatheia
A cluster of tall stone tower houses crowns a ridge near the southern tip of the Mani, the classic image of the region. Most towers stand empty or partly restored, and the lanes between them can be walked in half an hour. The surrounding landscape is bare and dry. It makes a long day trip from Kardamyli, often combined with Cape Tainaro.
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Vyros Gorge
A deep limestone gorge cuts down from Mount Taygetus to the sea at Kardamyli, with waymarked paths running along its floor and up its walls. Walkers pass small chapels and abandoned monasteries tucked into the rock. The bed is dry in summer but can flood after winter rain. Trails are rough and stony, so walking boots and plenty of water are needed.
