
Ninety seconds on Bardini Garden
Across a terraced hillside in the Oltrarno, you climb past fountains, grottoes and a carved dragon spouting water, through three gardens laid out in different centuries. The garden is usually far less crowded than its neighbours.
Three gardens share the hill, and the central Baroque staircase climbs between them. Irises fringe the steps, and water runs down a channel from a carved dragon. To the west lies the English wood, a rare Anglo-Chinese garden of exotic plants, and to the east an orchard and vegetable garden below the medieval city walls.
The wisteria pergola runs some 70 metres and forms a covered tunnel when it flowers. It is planted with Japanese varieties such as Black Dragon, with its dark purple double flower, and the pink Showa Beni.
Stefano Bardini, an antique dealer who bought the hill in 1913, brought most of the roughly two hundred statues, thirteen fountains and three grottoes.
Around them grow centuries-old holm oaks and olive trees, with camellias, azaleas, roses and hydrangeas in the beds. At the top of the staircase, the belvedere looks out over the whole Florence skyline.
From the Via de' Bardi entrance by the river, you start at the bottom of the hill with the whole climb ahead. Take the central staircase straight up, pausing at the dragon channel and on each terrace.
Climb through the wisteria pergola over the staircase, then go out to the belvedere. La Loggetta, the café-bar by the loggia, serves drinks up here from March to November.
Come down through the English wood on the west side or the orchard on the east, so you see a different garden on the way back. The Boboli Gardens are next door if you want a second garden the same day.
Gravel and earth paths, uneven and stepped, call for shoes with grip. Take the climb slowly and rest on each terrace. For sunset light, arrive well before last entry.
Between December and February, carry your own water. Autumn brings golden leaves and fewer crowds; bring a book for the benches under the oaks.
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