Piazzale Michelangelo

What makes it special

The view runs from Forte Belvedere to Santa Croce, across the Arno and its bridges. Along that stretch you can pick out the Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio and the Bargello.

The bronze David in the middle of the square is a copy, raised on a tall pedestal and looking out towards the hills. The marble original is in the Galleria dell'Accademia. Below it sit bronze copies of the four allegories from the Medici Chapels at San Lorenzo.

Giuseppe Poggi laid out the square in 1869, while Florence was briefly the capital of Italy, as a monument to Michelangelo. The neoclassical loggia behind the terrace was meant to hold copies of all his Florence statues, but that museum was never built, and the loggia is now a restaurant-cafe.

On the wall under the loggia, an inscription in Latin names Poggi and tells you to turn round, because the square is his monument.

Visiting

Walk up from the river, because the climb is part of the visit. On the south bank you pass Porta San Niccolò, one of the old city gates, then take the Rampe del Poggi, curved stone ramps with fountains and grottoes, up to the terrace.

Claim a place on the steps about an hour before sunset, which falls around 21:00 in late June and 16:40 in December. For the clearest line to the Duomo, stand in the northeast corner, away from the central railing where the crowd packs in. Stay through blue hour, when the sunset-only visitors head down and the terrace thins out.

The Rose Garden's gate is on the western side, just before the main staircase, with bronzes by Jean-Michel Folon and a small Japanese garden among the roses. It is usually open from morning until sunset, and the roses bloom in late spring.

Above the square, on via delle Porte Sante, San Miniato al Monte is far quieter. Its monks sing vespers in Latin and Gregorian chant every day at 18:30, and entry is free.

Tips

From April to October tour buses unload straight into the square, and vendors set out souvenirs and counterfeit bags on folding tables. For the terrace nearly to yourself, come early in the morning, before the buses. From nine until noon the light is clear and frontal on the skyline, while the tour groups are at the Duomo and the Uffizi.

Bring water in summer. Wine and snacks on the steps are part of the evening, so carry yours up with you. Public toilets are just below the main terrace, with a small charge and long queues once the light goes.