
Ninety seconds on Vistula Boulevards
The riverside path runs along both banks of the Vistula below Wawel Castle, and you see the castle hill from the water's edge, not the streets.
The boulevards were built as flood banks on both sides of the river, and the promenade came much later. That is why you reach the riverside path by stairs from the street above.
Under the castle, Czerwieński Boulevard has the Wawel Dragon statue, 6 metres tall with six legs, and gas piped inside lets it breathe real fire. In the legend, the shoemaker Skuba fed the dragon a sheep stuffed with sulphur, and it drank from the Vistula until it burst.
A little further along, Bronisław Chromy's statue of Dżok remembers the dog who waited here for his master to return. Nearby, an avenue of handprints carries the palms of Celine Dion, Marek Grechuta, Krzysztof Krawczyk and the band Maanam, among others.
Across the water on Poleski Boulevard stands Manggha, the museum of Japanese art and technology, designed by Arata Isozaki with Kraków architects. Its terrace looks straight over the river at Wawel Castle, and this is the view of the hill the boulevards are known for.
The walk starts below Wawel, where stairs lead down from the street to the river path. Czerwieński Boulevard runs from there between the Dębnicki and Grunwaldzki bridges, past the dragon, Dżok and the handprints, and it is the busiest stretch of the walk.
Cross the river to Poleski Boulevard on the right bank, opposite the castle. The Manggha museum stands here, and its terrace and Cafe Manggha, which pours Japanese tea, belong to the museum.
Back on the left bank, Inflancki Boulevard passes the Skałka church toward Kazimierz, and from here a viewing platform shows the city and, on a clear day, the Tatra Mountains. Food barges moor along the banks, the levees suit a picnic, and public toilets sit near the main sights and cafes.
Benches on the levees are scarce, so a blanket is the easiest way to sit by the water for a picnic or the sunset.
The Vistula Cycling Route, part of EuroVelo, runs along the boulevards, so watch for wheels as you walk.
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