
Ninety seconds on Düden Waterfalls
Following the Düden from a cave beside its upper fall to the cliffs where the lower fall meets the Mediterranean shows you one river two ways: inland shade first, then the open sea.
The water here starts at springs about 40 km inland and travels underground for part of the way. It surfaces at a place called Düdenbaşı and runs above ground from there to the sea.
The upper fall, also called Yukarı Düden, has springs beneath it that keep it running all year. At least 10 cubic metres of water a second rise from below, and the flow is far stronger in winter.
Downstream at the lower fall, the river splits into branches and drops off sheer cliffs. Fishermen work the water at the mouth, where the fresh river meets the salt.
In antiquity the falls were known as Kataraktes, and they became a symbol of the city.
Easiest is two stops: the upper fall in Kepez first, then the lower fall on the coast road to Lara. At the upper park you pay at the gate, then follow the paths past shaded seating, running channels and cafés to the fall.
Beside the fall, a cool, dark and damp passage climbs through the natural cave. It ends at gaps in the rock face, where you look out at the water and downstream. Bats roost inside, so leave them undisturbed.
At the lower fall there is no ticket gate. Walk to the viewing terraces, which look over the fall, the cliffs and the open sea, then sit down at the restaurant or the tea gardens on the river behind it.
Both parks are walked on your own. The one outing to book is a boat trip from the old harbour below Kaleiçi, since the lower fall is a regular stop on the route.
In spring and summer the boat gets close to the fall. Most trips run about two hours, and sailings go year round, weather permitting.
Bag your phone before the cave: spray from the fall drifts onto cameras and phones, so carry a waterproof case. The cave path is wet and slippery, so wear shoes with real grip. Swimming is not allowed at the upper fall, however hot the day.
At the upper gate, museum cards are not accepted. Disabled visitors, veterans and relatives of fallen soldiers enter free.
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