Göreme Open Air Museum

What makes it special

Monks lived in Göreme from the 4th to the 13th century and cut a church, chapel or refectory into almost every rock in this valley. The museum gathers more than ten of those churches within a short walk of each other. Their walls tell stories from the Bible and the life of Christ.

Two ways of painting were used here. Some scenes are painted straight onto the bare rock. Others are painted in tempera on a layer of dry plaster, the technique called fresco secco.

The Dark Church is the most important building on the site. Light enters only through one small window in its narthex, and that lack of light has kept the colours of its paintings vivid. Inside are a central dome, four columns and three apses, with Bible scenes across the walls.

Tokalı Church is the other one to find. It is larger, and its paintings run in long bands that follow the life of Christ as one continuous story on blue backgrounds.

Visiting

Heading straight for the Dark Church is the way to start. It has its own entrance and usually its own ticket, and short, easy paths from the main gate link the rest of the churches.

Inside, a curved staircase on the north side leads up to its barrel-vaulted narthex. The interior is small, so staff may hold you at the door when it fills. Groups move from church to church in waves, and other doorways can mean a short wait too.

Work round the smaller churches next, including the Snake Church and Çarıklı Church. Keep your main ticket as you leave the enclosure, because it may be checked again at Tokalı Church, which sits apart from the smaller churches.

Tips

Take the audio guide offered at the museum, or come with a licensed guide, to learn which Bible story each church tells. The churches look alike from the outside, and without that context it is easy to walk past important scenes.

Photography is restricted in some churches to protect the paintings, so be ready to put the camera away, especially in the Dark Church. Bring water, sunscreen and comfortable shoes. If you cannot make the opening, come after 15:30, when the groups begin to thin.