
Ninety seconds on Uçhisar Castle
Worth the climb for seeing Cappadocia whole, this hollowed rock puts Pigeon Valley's green floor below you, Göreme's fairy chimneys beyond and, on a clear day, snow on Mount Erciyes.
What looks like a fortress is a natural rock formation about 60 metres high, two huge cones fused side by side. The old village of Uçhisar is built around its base, and the name means outer citadel.
Look at the rock face as you climb: it is riddled with carved doorways, rooms and tunnels. Inside were storerooms and big cisterns cut to collect rainwater, so the people sheltering there could last through a long siege. Nobody lives in it now, and many of its passages are blocked, though the climb itself passes through some of the carved caves.
The summit served as a lookout, and the view is still the reason to climb. It turns full circle, reaching past the valleys around Göreme as far as Avanos.
From the top, look down into Pigeon Valley: the small holes in its walls are dovecotes, cut to house pigeons and to enrich Cappadocia's dry soil. The trail into the valley starts right below the castle and runs downhill back to Göreme.
Arriving in the old village, you walk uphill through the lanes to the base of the rock, where small shops, cafés and the ticket kiosk sit together. Buy your ticket there and keep it until you leave.
The path first winds through caves hollowed out of the cone, then climbs steep stairs carved into its outside. Once you are out of the caves, a short last flight brings you onto the summit.
At the top, walk the whole rim before you settle on a spot, because each side faces a different valley. If you are walking down Pigeon Valley afterwards, buy water at the shops by the car park first.
No guide is needed for the climb. A group day tour that includes the castle suits you if you would rather not arrange transport and separate tickets. On your own, you choose the hour and stay at the top as long as the light holds.
The summit is exposed and turns cold in the wind even in midsummer, so pack a windbreaker. Wear shoes with grip: the carved stairs are uneven, some passages are narrow, and with no ramps or lifts the climb is hard going if you have limited mobility.
In summer, climb in the morning or late afternoon, out of the strongest sun. Late morning is the busiest time; at sunset the light is warmer and the crowd thinner. The balloons go up around dawn, often before the gate opens, so watch them from the lanes below the rock and climb later.
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